For the last two years I’ve been attending classes at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) here in New York City. Last semester I took a draping class that was dedicated to designing soft silhouettes like dolman sleeves, pegged skirts, and cowls.
At the beginning of the semester we draped in muslin and then moved on to knit jersey and woven crepe. For our final project, we were asked to drape a two-piece ensemble with a resort feel (think winter cruise). One of the pieces had to include a cowl — either front neck, back neck, or underarm cowl, or a cowl on the pants.
I chose to create my ensemble using a lemon yellow wool crepe by Carolina Herrera from Mood Fabrics in New York City. Wool crepe drapes beautifully and is a pleasure to work with. (You can check out Mood’s online selection of wool crepes here.)
The pant I designed is capri length, cut full, with two front pleats, left and right, no side seams, and with a 1 1/2″ wide waistband. My top is a simple front-buttoned blouse with a dramatic underarm cowl draped on the bias. The center front (CF) and CB (CB) edges are on the straight grain and cross grain respectively.
The blouse is draped with just two square pieces, left and right, folded in half diagonally. The bias edge forms the underarm cowl. The fabric is slung under the arm and the cowl is formed by creating deep folds at the shoulder, held in place in the shoulder seam. The CB seam connects left and right sides. I added placket extensions and facings to my CF seam, to support buttonholes and buttons. The simple jewel neckline is finished with bias piping.
It’s very satisfying to see something you create yourself displayed on a dress form but it’s something else entirely to see it worn by a real person. I had a hunch this ensemble would fit my beautiful friend Lenore and I was thrilled when she agreed to model it for me this month. It looked so smashing on her, in fact, that I have decided to give it to her.
Take a look!
This ensemble was a delight to create. Having it so beautifully modeled by Lenore is icing on the cake (though I’m thinking lemon meringue pie after these photos). Have you ever made a garment from wool crepe? If so, what did you make?
Thanks for reading and see you next month!