Plaid. I just can’t get enough! When last we met I was sharing a plaid dressing gown and now I’m onto a plaid coat. Is there any stop to the plaid madness?! Probably not.
My favorite style of jacket to wear in early fall (hint: not now) and spring (sadly: also not now) is a Pendleton 49er. It’s a casual, unlined, relatively thin wool vintage jacket, in bold plaids. I happen to own a McCall pattern from 1948 that’s extremely similar, McCall 7400.
With a gorgeous woven wool coating (sold out now, I’m sorry!) and silk lining (note to future self: China silk is thinner than you really want), I set off to work to make my own version. But mine would be warmer due to the thicker fabric, and obviously lined.
Man alive, though. Unbalanced large scale plaid? I’m apparently a glutton for sewing punishment. But ooooh was it worth it!
Sooo much time spent matching up the plaid and deciding what lines were more prominent. In the end I got it 95% how I wanted it. I’m calling it a win. But… sooo much time.
I finished off the collar, front seam allowances and patch pockets with topstitching. The buttons are lovely vintage ones, a perfectly matching deep green.
I cut the patch pockets on the bias and here’s a little secret: the woven fabric was basically the same on both sides, although I didn’t want to risk a slight difference by reversing it anywhere on the body. But for the pockets? Yep, I totally did. That’s why they’re a perfect mirror. 😉
I used fusible tailoring methods (just my personal preference), but I love to take my time with tailoring projects and don’t mind the hand work at all. I hand baste all the seam allowances with silk thread to keep them nice and flat until the project is complete, hand tack the hem allowance and hem together in several spots so it doesn’t want to flop open, and things like that. It’s kind of soothing when I’m working on a really big project that makes me feel kind of anxious about it actually all coming together until the very end.
Oh wait, speaking of hand work…
Overall I couldn’t be more thrilled with this project. Maybe if I’d had the next pattern size up, I could have winterized it more. But frankly, no complaints. I’ve extended my love for casual plaid jackets into early winter with this coat, and I’m loving it!