This month for the Mood Sewing Network I’m making myself a suit! The fabric I’ve chosen is a luxurious gray cotton-mohair suiting, made in Italy, and purchased at Mood Fabrics NYC. It has a somewhat firmer hand than lightweight tropical wool suiting but feels a bit more casual (due to the cotton), and has a beautiful sheen. Editor’s note: MoodFabrics.com has a ton of suiting fabrics. We actually sell more menswear fabrics than you realize!
I decided to make the trousers first (as recommended in my suit-making books) and the jacket second. That way you’re more experienced working with the fabric when you take on the greater challenge of a tailored jacket.
The pants have side slant front pockets and two double-welt pockets in back. For pocketing I used sturdy gray cotton shirting I had on hand. I used commercial waistbanding for the inside waistband and a metal YKK zipper in the fly. I used the same pattern as last month for the white linen pants.
Given the splendid quality of the fabric, I decided to splurge on professional buttonholes (done at Jonathan Embroidery, just one block north of Mood, on 38th St.) and I’m very happy with the results. They cost just a few dollars but really raise the level of the finished garment.
The pants are already hemmed but I haven’t yet pressed the crease: I’m still undecided about the final length. Some people may find these a little short; I think shorter is sportier but I’m not sure. There’s a trend toward shorter hems for men, especially in summer suits, but maybe that works better with a narrower leg than these pants have. (I find very narrow legs unflattering and confining.)
I have to see how the pants look with the jacket before I make up my mind. What do you think?
Will I finish the jacket before the end of the month? I certainly hope so. In the meanwhile, I have a very elegant pair of pants to enjoy.
Thanks for reading!