I don’t think it’s a big secret just how much I love the Organic Cotton Twill that Mood Fabrics sells. Over the years, I have sewn my share of pieces using this wonderful fabric (pants, shorts, and my recent jacket!) – it truly washes and wears beautifully, and comes in a fantastic array of colors! I am always looking for another excuse to use this fabric, it’s that good!
I still had quite a bit of the Olive Organic Cotton Twill leftover from the aforementioned jacket – about a yard and a half – so I thought I would use it to make a pair of pants. I generally tend to wear pants that have a lot of stretch – like, secret leggings (I say secret because they look like Adult pants with pockets and fly zippers, but ooh the stretch is like a pair of yoga pants HAHA) – but I was open to trying something new. Since my twill only has a little bit of mechanical crosswise stretch (i.e., no lycra in this stuff!), I chose the Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans, as that pattern is drafted for woven fabrics.
This particular pattern is actually intended to be made with denim – hence the name – but I feel that a good-quality medium weight cotton twill can certainly be interchangeable with a medium-weight denim. This first make is my “wearable muslin” for this pattern – while I’ve made other patterns from this company before, this is my first time with this particular one. Since I already had the leftover twill burning a hole in my stash, it made sense to use that for this project instead of buying a new piece of fabric.
Making this pattern out of twill isn’t really any different than using denim, in terms of process, although it might be a hair easier. Since the twill isn’t super thick (it is bottom-weight, but 3-4 layers of this stuff still easily fits under my presser foot without much of a struggle), I didn’t have any issues with any of the sewing. An 80/12 Universal needle is perfectly suitable for this fabric, and you don’t have pound down layers to reduce bulk (I’m looking at you, belt loops). I topstitched everything with a matching olive thread, but I used a triple stitch instead of topstitching thread. Pressing was probably the best part – this stuff is pure cotton, and it presses and steams up like a dream!
One nice thing about this fabric – and something you absolutely need to keep in mind when you work with it – is that, although it doesn’t really have stretch, it will loosen up over the course of wearing it. This can also be the case with non-stretch denim, and the pattern was drafted with this in mind. The pants do end up fitting quite slim when you first finish them, but they will relax and loosen quite a bit as you wear them. In my case, they were EXTREMELY tight – like, I had to let out the side seams to baaaarely anything and yes I will be going up a size for my next pair haha – but they are basically perfect now that the twill has relaxed a bit. In these photos, I have been wearing them for about 3 days, hence all the wear wrinkles. They are incredibye comfortable and basically will never be allowed anywhere near a dryer haha
Other than the snafu with the sizing (FWIW, I did cut my regular size 2 – as I do with all other patterns from this company – but I think the issue here is that I’m *technically* between sizes so I should have gone up a size. Anymore, more info about that when I post about this on my own blog!), the rest of the fit is really good straight out of the envelope. The legs are quite long – I think the inseam is about 32″ which LOL is like 4″ too much inseam for me – but it is easy enough to cut that off before you hem. These are hemmed to be full-length pants, but I like the way they look rolled up, too!
Anyway, this was an easy project and I look forward to making more of this pattern once I re-trace a bigger size (UGH tracing but for once, I’m glad I did it!). I am especially excited to try out some of the Denim that Mood offers, as I’ve had my eye on it for ages but was concerned about the lack of stretch (as all my go-to pants patterns required some lycra for a good fit). Now that I have a good pattern for non-stretch, the world is truly my pants-oyster 😛