With winter on the horizon, it’s time for true cold weather outerwear. For me, that means wool.
At Mood Fabrics NYC, I found a lovely donegal tweed — the name generally given to tweeds with bits of yarn in other colors woven in, even if they’re not made in County Donegal, Ireland. This one is mainly a brown salt and pepper, but as you can see, there are other colors too, like rust and beige. The weave is coarse but the hand is quite soft. Editor’s note: Lots of great pea coat fabric options at MoodFabrics.com.
For the lining, I chose a beautiful brown Bemberg rayon. Rayon tends to hold up better than silk and, like my wool, breathes.
The genuine horn buttons are also from Mood Fabrics. A coat like this deserves something special.
My pattern is another peacoat (#5) from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s Japanese men’s coat pattern book. The coat is interfaced with haircloth throughout, along with heavy muslin (for back stay and sleeve cap backing), with a sheer knit fusible interfacing in the front facings. My primary guide for the understructure was the book “Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.”
I have never done so much hand stitching but the results are worth it.
I had my buttonholes made in the Garment District at Jonathan Embroidery. They did a beautiful job.
This coat is perhaps my favorite project ever. And how lucky, on a Mood project photo shoot, to be dressed appropriately for the weather!
After five minutes of cold, the relative warmth of a local garage beckoned!
This coat took me many hours to complete but I learned a lot in the process. I have overcome my fear of working with hair canvas, and my repertoire of hand stitches has grown tremendously. Wool tweed is a pleasure to work with and the result is, unarguably, classic. All in all, a great experience.
A happy holiday to all — see you in the new year!