It’s been 11 years since I first made my version of the “iconic French jacket”. I used all of the couture methods, which basically consisted of completely hand sewing. It was quite the undertaking and something I felt at the time I needed in my sewing repertoire to prove that I was bomb-ass seamstress. I’ve worn my jacket a lot over the last decade, because it’s lightly tailored and as soft as a cardigan. It easily works with everything from dressier garments such as a LBD, pencil skirt and dress trousers as well as a pair of jeans. I knew I wanted to make another one and I purchased and held onto the perfect fabric and trim for a couple of years while I went around and around with myself on construction.My fabric is this gorgeous Metallic Black on Black Tweed that is unfortunately sold out, because I bought this a couple of years ago. But I like this one, this one and this one.This style is so classic, that there are many patterns to choose from. I went with Vogue 7975. I went with view E, because of the length. The short boxy styles of this jacket just don’t work for me.I prefer this long style that is nipped in at the waist and stops at the fullest point of the hips. I cut the size 14 and added one inch to the length.For the sleeves, I used Vogue 8804. I wanted this sleeve because of the 3-piece vented style. This pattern is drafted with substantial ease because it’s meant for the fabric to be quilted to the lining. And since I didn’t do that, I shaved it down by almost 2″. And I added 1″ to the length. They’re meant to be a 3/4 sleeve.My lining is Bemberg rayon from my stash. My jacket has facings, front and back neck. I bagged my lining instead of sewing it by hand. And I added Chanel’s signature chain detail to the inside hem to weigh the jacket down.
My trim is this really interesting Black/Gold Chain Trim. I didn’t carry it around the bottom edge of the jacket because I don’t feel it would hold up against sitting on it.
I used gold blazer buttons from my local big box craft store.
I love this jacket and by it being black means it’s going to be worn a lot and more often than the other one. In comparing the two, I really don’t see any difference in the quality or how this one wears compared to the one with the quilted lining. It just really boils down to how much time you want to invest in construction.