Wool + Lace Black and White Dress

I’ve just finished a classy wool dress for fall/winter that I’m in love with! The idea for this garment has been floating around my brain for years and I’m just so pleased to see it turn out exactly how I imagined.

P1190826

I knew I wanted to play around with lace motifs and needed a lace that I could cut into that wouldn’t fray. The one I used is from Mood fabrics and is all sold out but here is a black 3D guipure lace that’s similar. The white is an ivory wool twill also from Mood fabrics and also all sold out. (Sorry!) Mood as lots of other wool twills available. Their anemone red is a particularly beautiful color that would go great with black lace.

P1190864

The pattern I used is Vogue 9183. It’s a simple shift dress that’s fitted through the bust and skims over the waist and hips. I was intrigued by the neckline of this design and the absence of side seams. I did not make a muslin first as I figured it wouldn’t need much fitting past the bust. I cut a size 12 through the bust and waist, tapering out to a 14 through the hips. Thankfully it fit without needing any adjustments.

P1190874

To make this dress I sewed the ivory wool body pieces together first and put in the zipper. Then I put the dress on my dress form and figured out how I wanted the front lace piece to lay. When it was completely pinned on I took it off the dress form and slowly stitched the lace on by hand with millions of tiny stitches. I went all around the perimeter of the lace and did some stitching in the middle as well. When that was finally done I put it back on my dress form and repeated the process for the second lace piece. Then I had to figure out the lining because this patten is unlined. Usually putting in a lining just involves using the provided bodice pieces but since this dress has a neck facing that’s folded over and incorporated into the design, the lining was no picnic.

P1190898

Dressform pictures:

P1190907

P1190909

P1190911

P1190913

Here’s a closeup of the neckline. I think it looks kind of 60s mod.

P1190916

I used an antique white china silk for the lining. The sleeve head seams were covered in bias tape for a clean finish.

P1190921

This dress took forever to complete! I am glad to have it finished so I can move on to something else. And since I now have two cream and black lace dresses in my wardrobe, I don’t think I’ll be needing another anytime soon. 😉

32

Comments


  • Cennetta
    October 24, 2016

    Beautiful.., Both dresses are beautiful. And as also, your craftsmanship is impeccable.

    • Thanks Cennetta! I didn’t actually mean to make two dresses with such similarities, and only realized when this last one was nearly complete. Lol. I guess I have definite things I like.

  • Peter
    October 24, 2016

    Very beautiful. I think you handled the lace placement brilliantly. Those “millions of tiny stitches” paid off!

    • Thank you Peter! I really enjoyed the process of all the hand sewing and find it super relaxing, especially if I can watch something at the same time.

  • Lisa
    October 24, 2016

    I don’t have a blog and I don’t generally post comments but I read your blog all the time and admire your work so I just had to post. This dress is stunning and looks fantastic on you! I am inspired.

  • Lori
    October 24, 2016

    Stunning dress and perfect lace placement, Amanda.

  • Irene
    October 25, 2016

    Absolutely stunning! All that work really paid off.

  • Fiona
    October 25, 2016

    Wow what a project Amanda! You made some beautiful choices here with the simplicity of the pattern and all the fabrics you chose. I love the neckline of the dress and you’ve done sucha beautiful job with the lace

    • Thanks Fiona! Sometimes I put off these types of projects because I know they will take forever. Working on the same thing for weeks on end bores me after awhile. It’s always worth it in the end, though.

  • Lisa
    October 25, 2016

    Wow! That’s really beautiful. You created a masterpiece!

  • Karen
    October 25, 2016

    Stunning and so well made!

  • Jean
    October 25, 2016

    Stunning! I wanted to use another adjective, but I actually gasped when I saw this dress. Beautiful work. Brava!

  • Connie Turner
    October 25, 2016

    Beautiful dress, I hope you have some really wonderful and fun occasion to wear it.

    • I’ll probably wear this to church this winter. I’m sure as my kids get older I’ll have more and more occasions to need a fancy dress. Hopefully this style doesn’t look dated in the years to come. Thanks Connie!

  • Cissie
    October 26, 2016

    Gorgeous, Amanda. Very classic and elegant. I love working with lace, but it is labor-intensive. You did a great job with the placement.

    • Thanks Cissie! Picking out where I wanted the lace and where I thought a void should be was really fun, and now I’m wondering where else I can make use of the technique.

  • Michelle
    October 26, 2016

    Wow! – I am such a massive fan of your style and I will admit that I do prefer your more formal items. They are so classically elegant and the excellent detailing just jumps out. So much hard works pays off now is the time to enjoy it. Thanks so much for sharing as always. It’s inspiring.

    • Amanda S.
      October 28, 2016

      Thanks so much Michelle! For whatever reason, the more detailed and formal items I attempt just seem to work out better. It’s hard to take so much time on one item, though, because I am constantly having ideas for other things I want to make and I feel like I never have enough time.

  • Erica Bunker
    October 27, 2016

    This dress is so beautiful! It looks like something from Carolina Herrera! Just stunning!

    • Amanda S.
      October 28, 2016

      She is my current favorite designer and I always watch her runway shows each season, so maybe it’s rubbing off on me. Thank you Erica!

  • Carolyn
    October 30, 2016

    This is lovely and definitely couture worthy! The amount of hand-sewing that you had to put into this really shows in the finish. Fantastic job and dress!

    • Amanda S.
      October 30, 2016

      Thank you Carolyn! It definitely was a labor of love!

  • Genevieve
    October 31, 2016

    Oooooh, I can see a fur stole around your shoulders with some fancy shmancie gloves and a large size pearl bracelet with this dress. It is beautiful!

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2016

      Ha! I do actually own my grandmother’s mink stole, although I’ve never had an opportunity to wear it. Thanks Genevieve!

  • Margo
    November 1, 2016

    Gorgeous!! Absolutely gorgeous!

    • Amanda S.
      November 1, 2016

      Thank you Margo!!