Wool and Leather Coat
Hi Ya’ll! I’m very excited to show you my newest make for the Mood Sewing Network! I know everyone is clamoring for spring, and the last thing you want to look at is another reminder that it’s still, alas, winter, but bear with me here because I’m really excited about this coat!
I actually spotted and fell in love with this Oscar de la Renta wool coating from Mood Fabrics’ online store before I became a Mood Sewing Network blogger. It’s basically my dream coat fabric. It’s double faced, so it has a gorgeous weight to it, and it’s plenty warm for the southern winters I’m dealing with. And I just think the large-scale, salt and pepper herringbone has such a luxurious texture to it.
I really wanted to use this fabric to make a coat that felt both architectural and soft. I know that seems like a contradiction – but trust me, it can exist! I decided to use Vogue 8933 for the pattern, because I loved the large, dramatic collar, and the asymmetrical front. Also, this was a relatively un-fussy pattern, perfect for my first go at making a coat (although I did re-draft the one piece sleeve into a two-piece sleeve, because two piece sleeves are just so much better). And since this Oscar de la Renta wool has such a gorgeous texture, I thought it would be fun to really highlight it with an opposing texture for the sleeves. You can disagree, but I’m pretty certain that this nubby wool paired with this buttery soft black leather (from my stash) is like the ‘chocolate & peanut butter’ of the textile world – tactile soul mates.
Since I was on a roll with making this coat as much of a sensory delight as one can make a coat, I decided to throw another oh-my-god-I-can’t-stop-touching-it fabric into the mix: silk charmeuse. I’m not going to lie, I completely stole this idea from some other brilliant and fabulous sewists (namely Lauren and Erica). It just looked so incredibly … what’s the word … rich! And since it’s always fun to add a bit of ‘over the top-ness’ with linings, I opted for this lovely magenta silk charmeuse - although I might call it fuchsia rather than magenta. I like that it adds just a touch of “Dynasty” to the coat, without going full blown Joan Collins.
Since I was trying to maintain some softness with the fabric, I didn’t go full tilt with the tailoring. I used fusible horse hair canvas in the facings, and to reinforce the pockets, and underlined the leather sleeves with cotton batiste. I also constructed a back stay from the cotton batiste… aaanndd.. that’s really it! I think because this wool is double-faced it already has a bit more heft than single-ply fabrics and I didn’t want the coat to get too bulky, or to lose the drape of the collar.
All in all I’m incredibly excited about this coat! Truthfully, I probably won’t get a chance to wear it this year, since spring is already making itself felt down here in the south. However, I know I will be immensely grateful for this coat come next winter! Is anyone else doing a little ‘out of season’ sewing?