Wool and Leather Coat

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

Hi Ya’ll! I’m very excited to show you my newest make for the Mood Sewing Network! I know everyone is clamoring for spring, and the last thing you want to look at is another reminder that it’s still, alas, winter, but bear with me here because I’m really excited about this coat!

 

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

I actually spotted and fell in love with this Oscar de la Renta wool coating from Mood Fabrics’ online store before I became a Mood Sewing Network blogger.  It’s basically my dream coat fabric. It’s double faced, so it has a gorgeous weight to it, and it’s plenty warm for the southern winters I’m dealing with.  And I just think the large-scale, salt and pepper herringbone has such a luxurious texture to it.

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.
I really wanted to use this fabric to make a coat that felt both architectural and soft. I know that seems like a contradiction – but trust me, it can exist! I decided to use Vogue 8933 for the pattern, because I loved the large, dramatic collar, and the asymmetrical front.  Also, this was a relatively un-fussy pattern, perfect for my first go at making a coat (although I did re-draft the one piece sleeve into a two-piece sleeve, because two piece sleeves are just so much better). And since this Oscar de la Renta wool has such a gorgeous texture, I thought it would be fun to really highlight it with an opposing texture for the sleeves. You can disagree, but I’m pretty certain that this nubby wool paired with this buttery soft black leather (from my stash) is like the ‘chocolate & peanut butter’ of the textile world – tactile soul mates.
Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

Since I was on a roll with making this coat as much of a sensory delight as one can make a coat, I decided to throw another oh-my-god-I-can’t-stop-touching-it fabric into the mix: silk charmeuse.  I’m not going to lie, I completely stole this idea from some other brilliant and fabulous sewists (namely Lauren and Erica). It just looked so incredibly … what’s the word … rich! And since it’s always fun to add a bit of ‘over the top-ness’ with linings, I opted for this lovely magenta silk charmeuse - although I might call it fuchsia rather than magenta. I like that it adds just a touch of “Dynasty” to the coat, without  going full blown Joan Collins.

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

Since I was trying to maintain some softness with the fabric, I didn’t go full tilt with the tailoring. I used fusible horse hair canvas in the facings, and to reinforce the pockets, and underlined the leather sleeves with cotton batiste. I also constructed a back stay from the cotton batiste… aaanndd.. that’s really it! I think because this wool is double-faced it already has a bit more heft than single-ply fabrics and I didn’t want the coat to get too bulky, or to lose the drape of the collar.

Wool and leather coat made with Mood fabrics and Vogue pattern 8933.

All in all I’m incredibly excited about this coat! Truthfully, I probably won’t get a chance to wear it this year, since spring is already making itself felt down here in the south.  However, I know I will be immensely grateful for this coat come next winter! Is anyone else doing a little ‘out of season’ sewing?

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Comments


  • oonaballoona
    February 25, 2014

    oh, sallie oh. incredible. just amazing. that combo of textures must be what heaven looks like.

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Oona!! I am having a LOT of fun petting it :)

  • Ginger
    February 25, 2014

    WOW! This is fantastic! What an amazing coat! Love the combination of textiles and the great burst of color in the lining!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Sonja! I was a little unsure about the bright lining while I was making it, but I do love the way it looks when you just get a peek at the inside.

  • True Bias
    February 25, 2014

    way to hit it out of the park! its so amazing.

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Aw, thanks Kelli!

  • Angela
    February 25, 2014

    oh!sallie!oh! Fabulous coat. It is RICH looking. Love it. Please wrap it up and post to me straight away. LOL

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Haha!! Thanks Angela!!

  • Kate McIvor
    February 25, 2014

    Love the coat and love the lining. Impressive work. :)

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thank you Kate! It’s a fun one to wear – very dramatic!

  • Sarah Gunn
    February 25, 2014

    Great coat, Sallieoh! With the below normal temps we’ve experienced, I think you’ll get lots of wear from it. Thanks for the tailoring tips, too!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Sarah! It has been SUCH a cold winter! I hope I get a few chances to wear it this year before having to pack it away to wait till next December.

  • Cennetta
    February 25, 2014

    Outstanding! Congratulations on your first project. You look great in your new coat.

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Cennetta!!

  • Peter
    February 25, 2014

    Great coat and I love the way the herringbone runs horizontal — unexpected and cool!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Peter! Yeah, the horizontal herringbone caught me off guard at first – I thought I was cutting on the cross grain, but no! It’s also a fairly subtle, and almost uneven herringbone pattern, which I think is pretty cool.

  • Sue
    February 25, 2014

    ohmyGAHH! This is amazing and I want it. I really love all of your fabric choices. A very chic, fabulous coat!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Oh thank you Sue!! I think wool, leather and silk might be my favorite textiles to work with.

  • Sew Brunswick
    February 25, 2014

    Wow! Simply beautiful. The pairing of the fabrics is superb. Well done!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Sew Brunswick!! This was one of those projects that practically came together by itself – I just felt like all the different fabrics were made for each other, they were practically begging me to pair them up!

  • Rachel
    February 25, 2014

    That is stunning! Well done!

    • Sallie
      February 25, 2014

      Thanks Rachel!!

  • Liza jane
    February 25, 2014

    Oh, wow! Amazing! Chocolate/peanut butter of the fabric world is right. The leather sleeves are fantastic. I am in awe of this coat. I hope you get to wear it a few times before spring, too! It’s warming up fast.

  • Ms. McCall
    February 26, 2014

    Ohhhh how lovely! I made a jacket a short time ago that also had almost that exact fabric combo – I thought it might be a little too nuts at the time, but I love it, and now I feel like it must have been a good choice because you have really impeccable taste and I freaking LOVE yours! Can’t wait to see what else you cook up with Mood!

  • Ms. McCall
    February 26, 2014

    Ohhhh how lovely! I made a jacket a short time ago that also had almost that exact fabric combo – I thought it might be a little too nuts at the time, but I love it, and now I feel like it must have been a good choice because you have really impeccable taste and I freaking LOVE yours! Can’t wait to see what else you cook up with Mood!

  • Christy
    February 26, 2014

    This is just stunning! Lovely work and lovely style. You sure can pick well!

  • fabric tragic
    February 26, 2014

    It’s amazing. I love the herringbone and the silk is luscious!

  • Angela
    February 26, 2014

    Love this coat! The surprise pop of color inside is so fun, and the leather details make it really chic! That collar is amazing!

  • Lauren
    February 26, 2014

    God, you are amazing ♥ DAT COAT!

  • Heather Lou
    February 26, 2014

    YOU MINX! You fabulous leather sleeved minx! This is basically my dream coat. But probably not the kind of thing I could wear in Montreal weather since I need fastenings everywhere to keep out the frozen hell. Please supply lots of nitty gritty construction shots if you post this to your blog as I want to see the innards. I LOVE GUTS!

    Oh god that collar.

  • katie
    February 26, 2014

    Love it, Sallie! Tweed + pleather are always a winner in my book. And such a dramatic yet wearable shape. Great job!

  • Lori
    February 26, 2014

    Gorgeous combination of tweed, leather, pattern and the lining, you look fabulous!

  • devra
    February 26, 2014

    oh, sallie. what a great make. i love the way you paired the textiles and i think the light tailoring was the right move.

  • Robert DuPont
    February 26, 2014

    I love the horizontal herringbone!

  • Hazel
    February 26, 2014

    love this, nice mixing of tweed/leather. Looks super cosy :)

  • Amanda S.
    February 27, 2014

    How fun! I love the mixing of materials and leather is always a welcome addition.