Twill and Flannel Anorak
Brrrrrr! Readers, it’s cold out here! I’m no fan of winter weather, but I AM a fan of outerwear, so at least the silver lining of this week’s snowfall is that I get to road-test my new jacket!
I’ve really been digging the trend of slouchy anoraks that all the cool Brooklyn babes seem to be wearing lately, so I was excited to recreate the look myself. The ubiquitous olive green doesn’t do me any favors, so I opted for a nice medium gray cotton twill from Mood Fabrics NYC (these beautiful organic twills are favorites of mine– I’ve used several colorways for different projects). I just love twill! It’s rugged and soft at the same time, easy to clean, press, and sew, and looks great even once it starts to show some wear. Here are some twill options available at MoodFabrics.com.
Because twill weaves fray easily, I serged all the seams, even though they would be hidden under the lining. It’s a nice precaution to help extend the life of your jacket. I topstitched all the seams with a twin needle, which gives it a RTW look and also adds some stability.
The pattern is for an unlined jacket, but I’m a cold person and love the feel of a lining, so I added one. The bulk of the lining is made out of this buffalo check flannel. It’s so warm and cozy! The sleeves are made out of black bemberg rayon (like this)– I get nervous that I’ll rip my lining putting on the jacket if the sleeves aren’t slippery! Since brushed fabrics have a tendency to pill over time, I made the lining with the unbrushed side of the flannel facing out. It’s still beautifully soft, but should stay in great condition longer.
The pattern (Style Arc’s Romy Anorak) calls for the pockets to be made with a box pleat that’s stitched down all the way. I wanted the pocket to expand to hold tons of stuff, so I used an inverted pleat that’s only stitched 2″ from the top and the bottom. I find it annoying to iron under all the seam allowances when I’m making patch pockets, so I opted to line them instead. I cut a second pair of pockets out of the plaid flannel, stitched them together at the sides and bottom, then turned them right-side out, turned under the top seam allowance, and edge-stitched all around. This makes for nice, neat pockets, plus my hands will stay warm in happy flannel-lined pockets!
I wanted this to look very clean and RTW, so I used brushed antique nickel jeans buttons from my stash, a matching separating zipper, and two faux metal toggles at the CF hem. I’m really pleased with the way they look!
I’m over the moon about this jacket! It’s just exactly my style! Isn’t that the best thing about sewing? It took forever to make, but it’s so rewarding to sew something that you can actually get away with wearing day in and day out, and that you’ll love wearing all the time!
What are you guys sewing these days? Are you sewing for the season, or jumping ahead to the next one? As much as I dislike winter, I’ve still got some cold weather items on the docket to sew before spring sets in. What about you?