Tuxedo Jacket and Silk Top

Mood Fabric's silk-wool twill jacket using Papercut Bellatrix pattern for a tuxedo jacket look

Summer means bright and fun colors but in reality  you just can’t escape black and white and/or cream.  These two colors are classic and always show up in fashion, plus they just go with everything.   I wear the cream/white so much better than the black so I went with a cream heavy look with accents of black for these two garments.   Well, let’s back up a bit, it all started with the blouse, McCall’s 7094, something very similar to a RTW top I have and love.  The fabric suggested was easy, a crepe de chine  and I had just ordered this beautiful Mood Fabrics’ Antique white/black Silk Crepe De Chine one of many crepe de chines at Mood.  You can find any color of your dreams or for your wardrobe needs.

 

This pattern went together fairly easily.  I didn’t have enough of the floral silk, so I used  this silk crepe de chine from my stash for the yoke and under collar.  This is also what I used for the lining in my jacket.  I did take my time with the placket and my one suggestion would be to cut the placket longer at the bottom.  I would much prefer to have extra fabric to work with than struggle with a short little piece.  This blouse is very full and I went with a size small per the finished measurements and still took a bit in at the waist and hips.

Mood Fabrics' silk crepe de chine for a flowy blouse from McCall's 7094

The side seams are finished with a french seam, remainder of the seams are enclosed by the yoke or bias binding.  How do you like that farmer tan I have going?  It is due to all the flowers in the background of all these pictures.  I have been busy planting, pruning, mulching and weeding.   Sewing is my first favorite hobby love but flowers are my second and I do love working with them in most part I just love being outside.  This year I have even more incentive for making my flower garden look perfect,  one of our daughters is having her wedding in our yard late summer.

Mood Fabrics' silk crepe de chine for a flowy blouse from McCall's 7094

I did change the hemline in the end.  I was a bit over the high-low hem and my mind was already thinking about creating the jacket.  So off with the long hem and in with a straight hem all around.

 

Mood Fabrics' silk crepe de chine for a flowy blouse from McCall's 7094

 

A close -up of the neckline

neckline

 

 

Now to this jacket made from Mood Fabrics’ Cream Crinkled Wool Silk-Wool Twill and the Papercut’s Bellatrix Blazer.  I have made this jacket before but this time went down a size and tapered the center back a bit more.   I interfaced the front, front facing (which is the collar), the lower front and lower back per the pattern instructions.  I do wish I had interfaced the side front, as the crinkled fabric stretches a bit when pressing.  The iron just flattens out those crinkles.

Mood Fabric's silk-wool twill jacket using Papercut Bellatrix pattern for a tuxedo jacket look

 

I had the outer jacket made and put it on my dressform when inspiration struck.  I really thought it looked like a tuxedo jacket, popular in RTW and wanted to make my jacket resemble that even more.  My first inclination was a black fabric to make the collar but guess what no black in my stash.  I did have some perfect black piping, so I went with that.  In the end I think the black piping makes my jacket much more versatile.

Mood Fabric's silk-wool twill jacket using Papercut Bellatrix pattern for a tuxedo jacket look

 

 

Now my jacket hangs just fine but I notice in several of these pictures, I have my hands holding onto the jacket.  Sorry, just have a hard time figuring out what to do with my hands during these pictures.  I took these photos in the mid-day sun,, so bare with the sunglasses, my choices were sunglasses or squinting!

Mood Fabric's silk-wool twill jacket using Papercut Bellatrix pattern for a tuxedo jacket look

 

I still have a bit of pooling in the mid back but this jacket I am quite pleased with the fit this time around.  This silk-wool is a bit thicker with the interfacing and double layers, so I did use my wooden clapper for the pressing, it helped tremendously.

 

 

Mood Fabric's silk-wool twill jacket using Papercut Bellatrix pattern for a tuxedo jacket look

 

I first fell in love with the top but my jacket is winning me over, I think it will be well-loved this summer for a layering piece.  Isn’t it so fun to sew and create garments with your own personal touch?  What is your favorite detail to add to your garment?

 

26

Comments


  • ME Pendleton
    May 18, 2015

    I love both of your versions Lori . All your tips & hints are so helpful . The color choices make them easy to wear for many occasions . Great job !!

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks so much, that is my hope that these two pieces will go with so many other things in my wardrobe.

  • Manju
    May 18, 2015

    The tops nice of course but the jacket is a knock out.

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks, Manju, the jacket is by far my favorite.

  • Goodbye Valentino
    May 18, 2015

    You outdid yourself, Lori! Both pieces are lovely, I am partial to sewing tops especially in crepe de chine. Nice job :)

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks Sarah, the crepe de chine is wonderful fabric to sew. Thanks so much.

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thank you, Sarah, the crepe de chine is an amazing fabric.

  • sallie
    May 18, 2015

    Wow! What great pieces! I love that top – this is reminding me that I really want this pattern! And the tuxedo jacket is just so luxe! The piping is the perfect touch.

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks, Sallie, I am thrilled with the piping.

  • Male Pattern Boldness
    May 18, 2015

    Lovely outift! Great job on that jacket, Lori, and the black piping was an inspired touch — really elegant.

    • Peter
      May 19, 2015

      These photos are particularly stunning, btw.

      • Lori
        May 20, 2015

        Thank you, Peter, you know when an idea just pops into your head…. that was the piping. YEA! And thanks for the photograph compliment, I have been working on some changes and switched lenses, that was a great improvement.

  • Amanda S.
    May 18, 2015

    I love them both Lori! You are right, a good black and white combo is needed for every season.

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thank you, Amanda, I am happy I went with the cream, a bit brighter for summer.

  • anne jewell
    May 18, 2015

    this outfit rocks! i would never have thought of using a crinkled wool for a blazer but it is a great choice! lately my favorite detail is cute buttons.–anne

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks,, Anne, I just had the fabric sitting there and thought, this will work! There are some great buttons out there.

  • Fiona
    May 18, 2015

    I think your Bellatrix Blazer might be my favourite of any that I have seen, I just love what you’ve done with the piping! I’ve been thinking a lot recently about little details I can add to my projects to make them unique and the piping is a great one! Fab tip on cutting that placket longer too thanks

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Oh, that is so sweet, Fiona, thank you. Sometimes it is the little details.

  • Rose
    May 19, 2015

    This is another one of your impressive outfits! Great for summer!!

    • Lori
      May 20, 2015

      Thanks so much, Rose, it will be so great for summer.

  • Ginger
    May 21, 2015

    What a great outfit! The top is so pretty and I love the jacket! The cream with black piping is so sharp and looks like it cost a LOT of money! :D

    • Lori
      May 21, 2015

      thanks so much, Sonja, isn’t it amazing what piping or other details do for a garment? Thanks again.

  • Sew Well
    May 21, 2015

    I just love these two together! Great pieces for the summer, and perfect with those shoes! Happy gardening, too, as you get ready for the wedding!

    • Lori
      May 25, 2015

      Thanks, Amy, I have been waiting for something to wear with my shoes!

  • Cennetta Burwell
    May 29, 2015

    Ms. Lori,
    First of all congratulations to your daughter. Your garden is beautiful. I want your jacket and blouse. Nice. I think I will get the papercut pattern. Looking good.

    • Lori
      June 3, 2015

      Thank you so much, Cennetta. We have had so much rain that the flowers are getting so big, sunshine now will make them huge! You do need to get the papercut pattern.