The Pea Coat!

wool peacoat
Every year since this pattern was released back in 2005, I’ve planned to make this jacket.  I’ve bought fabric every single year and the fabric seems to get designated for another project each year.  For the life of me, I couldn’t remember why I’d never gotten around to making this.  But this year, I was determined to make my pea coat that I’ve wanted for so long.

wool peacoat

This is out-of-print Vogue 2873, a design by Michael Kors from his Fall 2004 collection.  What I love most about this design is that pea coats are so traditional and timeless and this pattern was no exception.

wool peacoat

Pea coats are a wardrobe essential that every well-dressed woman I can think of owns and wears to death.  They have the ability to make your ensemble look much more pulled together than otherwise.

wool peacoat

For my pea coat, I chose this pattern because it has all of the details that I wanted (i.e. military-inspired epaulets, three row high buttons).  I wanted to use a heavy weight, high quality coating fabric so I chose this wool/cashmere (wool 80%/cashmere 20%) fabric from Mood Fabrics’ online site.  I can’t tell you how luxurious this fabric feels.  Unlike how wool can feel itchy, the cashmere makes it feel like a cuddly blanket you just want to wrap up in.

wool peacoat

Here are my jacket “innards”. As you see, I’ve intricately tailored it.  I’m not going to go into great depth and description because I’ve blogged extensively in the past on my tailoring techniques. The only thing I really did differently this time was using the machine instead of padstitchng.  It tremendously cut down on all of the handstitching.  I used a serpentine stitch as seen in Kenneth King’s book.  Other steps were taken from my tailoring go-to book — “Tailoring:  The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket”

wool peacoat

And for a vast amount of info on tailoring a coat or jacket, please check out”The Great Coat Sew-Along” blog.  The sew-along is way over, but the information is still there and is invaluable.

wool peacoat

The only modification I had to make was adding an inch of length to the body of the pea coat.  I was pleasantly surprised at how generously the sleeves are drafted.  I couldn’t believe I didn’t have to lengthen them.  For the lining, I used black Bemberg rayon from my stash.  And my favorite detail of all are the great silver/gold crested shank buttons.  They just take to the jacket to next level compared to the ones I see most in ready-to-wear.  And I topstitched using heavy-duty thread that wouldn’t get lost in the thick fibers of the fabric.

 

wool peacoat

For my final project of 2012, this is my favorite.  I succeeded in making heirloom-quality jacket that I plan to wear for many, many years.

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Comments


  • Amanda S.
    December 31, 2012

    Gorgeous coat, Erica! I love all the special details!

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Thanks Amanda!

  • Cidell
    December 31, 2012

    Holy Cow. Gorgeous and detailed.

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Thanks Cidell!

  • Ann Mather
    December 31, 2012

    Beautiful! How do you do the interfacing stitching on the sewing machine?

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Ann, I used a serpentine stitch. Thanks!

  • Angela
    December 31, 2012

    I just ordered the Tailoring book you mentioned, if you can get such great results then it is a book worth obtaining! As always, beautiful work. I enjoy your blog very much!

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Angela, that book is a great investment. Thanks!

  • Ginger
    December 31, 2012

    This looks AMAZING! Great job! What a perfect, classic, chic coat!

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Thanks Ginger!

  • Deb Morrison
    December 31, 2012

    That is my dream jacket! Absolutely, positively stunning!

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Deb, it was mine too. I’ve already worn it 4 times since I made it! Thanks!

  • Cissie
    December 31, 2012

    Wow! Wow! What a great project to end 2012 on! It looks so incredibly expensive!

    • Erica B
      December 31, 2012

      Thanks Cissie!

  • Carolyn
    January 1, 2013

    It’s an awesome jacket Erica and an amazing way to end 2012 and enter 2013!

    • Erica B
      January 2, 2013

      Thanks Carolyn!

  • Cathe
    January 1, 2013

    Oh this is just the most amazing jacket! So stylish and so well done!

    • Erica B
      January 2, 2013

      Thanks Cathe!

  • Amy
    January 1, 2013

    Fabulous pea coat! All those details! I’m always so impressed with your experience. You’ve inspired me to start planning a coat of my own. Thanks!

    • Erica B
      January 2, 2013

      Thanks Amy!

  • Lauren
    January 2, 2013

    Of course, this looks amazing. The fit is spot-on and I can only imagine how gorgeous and soft that fabric feels. This peacoat is basically the peacoat that haunts my dreams. I love it!!

    • Erica B
      January 3, 2013

      Thanks Lauren!

  • anne
    January 6, 2013

    peacoats are great! and yours looks so elegant on you!

    • Erica B
      January 7, 2013

      Thanks Anne!

  • Laura
    January 10, 2013

    Why did you wait so long? It’s beyond fabulous! And so impressed with your tailoring, thanks for showing the innards…now you need to be on the hunt for Emerald Green cashmere blend for next year’s coat…..so impressed!
    Laura

  • Erica B
    January 10, 2013

    Thanks Laura!

  • oonaballoona
    January 10, 2013

    so crisp and PERFECT. i’m working on a jacket now, though nowhere near as tailored… too jealous!!!

    • Erica B
      January 11, 2013

      Thanks Oona and good luck with your jacket!