Rag & Bone Blue Crepe Quart Jacket

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

I was really intrigued when I spotted this Rag & Bone Navy/Blue Cotton-Rayon Crepe in the new arrivals section of the Mood Fabrics website! It sounded so unusual being of a medium to heavy weight yet fluid. I’d been after something unique to make myself a biker style jacket after seeing Pauline Alice’s amazing short version of her Quart Coat so decided to take the plunge for this month’s Mood Sewing Network project and order myself enough of this to investigate. When it arrived it was kind of what I was imagining and kind of not…whatever it was it was beautiful! It’s fairly thick and spongy with something of a boucle texture to it at the same time as having a wonderfully soft drape. I love the slub effect of the vivid electric blue flecked through the navy.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

I cut a size 36 and used just 1.5 yards of the crepe. Despite the fabric being reasonably thick I thought perhaps for this style of jacket it could do with a little more support and structure so I fused all my pattern pieces with a lightweight cotton interfacing. I’m really pleased with this choice as without adding much weight it helped prevent the pattern pieces from stretching out of shape as despite being dense and opaque the weave is fairly loose and prone to fraying. To combat the fraying I overlocked the edges of all the pattern pieces before assembly. In addition to the lightweight interfacing I used a medium weight as a back stay, following the guide on the pattern piece for the shape.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

One of the great things about this fabric is that the reverse is the opposite colour way, with the electric blue the dominant colour flecked with navy. I really wanted to make use of this and considered using the contrasting side for small elements such as the pocket welts but in the end the fact that I wanted this to be a classic jacket which I could wear with anything won out and I decided to keep it simple. I’m still keeping my eye out for patterns suitable for colour blocking which I could us this for though!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

I went all out and lined the jacket with silk charmeuse in ‘midnight’. I wish I could afford to line everything in charmeuse from now on! It feels so luxurious when I’m wearing it over a sleeveless top. I had to get a little creative with the cutting as I only had one yard…I ended up piecing the under sleeve pattern piece as there just wasn’t quite enough space! I cracked out my walking foot for the first time when sewing it up and it was so helpful when trying to keep those seam lines smooth and pucker free. I didn’t have much trouble cutting it just using good old shears and pins as the pattern pieces are nice and small and I used a fine sharps needle in my machine to assemble these pieces.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

I followed¬†Pauline’s instructions¬†to adapt the pattern into a short zipped jacket rather than the full length buttoning coat. I drew my cutting line at 10cm below the waistline as recommended and moved the pockets up. I’m fairly short at 5ft 3″ and I wouldn’t want the jacket any shorter so if you are considering following this tutorial I’d think about leaving a little more length.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

The pocket welts are an addition I drafted myself following Pauline’s tutorial again. They are really simple to add in as the pocket openings are in the princess seams. I did make up the epaulettes and pin them onto the jacket but I decided not to use them in the end as I liked the look of a sleeker shoulder.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

There were a few elements of the construction of this jacket that had me feeling a little hesitant as they were so new to me. Firstly there was dealing with sleeve heads and shoulder pads. Setting in sleeves is probably my least favourite sewing task at the best of times so thinking about trying to create a beautiful tailored shoulder for this jacket was slightly off putting! I’m going to talk about my process for doing this in more depth over on my blog later in the week but for now I’ll just say I’m totally delighted with the result I managed to achieve and this was largely down to how well this lovely fabric responded to being shaped with heat and steam.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

Secondly there were the zips. I’ve had no experience sewing exposed zips so was a little apprehensive about how neatly I could get these to turn out. Thankfully the pattern instructions for the cuff zips are nice and detailed and break it down into simple little steps and I actually think the cuffs are the aspect of this jacket that I am most proud of! I love how the silver zips look against the blue of the fabric. The neat finish was definitely helped by the fact that stitches just sink right into this crepe and disappear. As well as the topstitching around the zips there’s quite a bit of hand sewing involved in this project but it was so straightforward as the sponginess of this fabric means any catch-stitching is completely invisible from the right side.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

The pattern is great and I’m definitely considering making it up as a full length coat this winter. If I do I think I’d go down a size at the waist as looking at the finished measurements there’s quite a lot of ease in that area. It’s sort of semi-tailored so I think good for a first foray into coat sewing; there’s some challenging elements involved and you could certainly add things like bound buttonholes but there’s no pad stitching or collar roll lines to deal with. I would recommend having a bit of sewing knowledge under your belt to tackle this one though. The instructions are good and the illustrations small yet clear but it would help to have experienced some of the techniques beforehand (for example how to sew in a sleeve head). I did find myself looking up some extra advice at certain points and making my own additions to the instructions such as under-stitching the lining at the pocket openings and stitching by hand in the ditch between the collar and jacket body to secure the two layers together. Not that this is a problem with the pattern at all; I never think it’s the designer’s responsibility to explain every single step in immense detail and if you’re taking on a coat project it’s fair to assume you have a bit of experience and will know the basics.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics

The fabric was so lovely to work with throughout. It’s one of those fabrics that’s so inspiring it kept me motivated all the way through what was a fairly tricky project. With time consuming projects like this I think it’s always worthwhile picking a fabric that you really love so you’re not going to get fed up of looking at it half way through and fall out of love with the whole idea! That being said I always enjoy a project like this where there are lots of fiddly little construction elements and pattern pieces to work with! I like seeing it all come together and taking it one little step at a time.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Quart Jacket in Rag & Bone Rayon/Cotton Crepe from Mood Fabrics
23

Comments


  • Adriene
    June 27, 2015

    This is amazing! The fabric & the fit are perfect!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Adriene! The fabric was lovely to work with and I’m so pleased with the way the vivid colour lifts the jacket

  • Lauren
    June 27, 2015

    LOOOOOVE THIS!!! it’s so sleek and classy and beautifully made (especially the zips – they are perfect!). And the color is just perfect on you!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Ah thanks Lauren! I was in love with this fabric the moment I saw it! Pretty proud of those zips too…

  • Amy
    June 27, 2015

    What a gorgeous coat!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Amy! It’s almost a shame we’re having our few weeks of too hot for a jacket weather here in the UK at the moment!

  • Kim Piter
    June 28, 2015

    It was beautiful. very well constructed. you wear it well, great job.

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Kim! I tried to take it nice and slow and give each step a lot of thought

  • Lindsay
    June 28, 2015

    You took on some great challenges with this — looks amazing! Love the fabric color.

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      It was quite a challenge Lindsay! Thank you. I’m really pleased with how all the new to me techniques turned out

  • Amanda S.
    June 29, 2015

    Very nice! Lovely fabric choice. I’ve got to check that one out.

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Definitely do Amanda! It’s so unusual, I’m definitely going to take the plunge with some more intriguing fabrics on future orders

  • Amy
    June 29, 2015

    Oooh looks amazing. I like how electric the blue is! Excellent work on those zips too

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      I was so pleased that the colour was as vivid in reality as on the website when it arrived! Thank you

  • Lori
    June 29, 2015

    This coat is stunning, the fabric is such a pretty one and the zippers are perfect.

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Lori! I do keep looking at those zips with pride!

  • Sandra
    July 1, 2015

    This jacket is amazing – what a great fabric choice!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Sandra! It was a bit of a risky choice as it’s so unusual that I wasn’t 100% sure that it would be what I imagined when it arrived but thankfully it was even more perfect!

  • Idle Fancy
    July 1, 2015

    Wow. This is so, so chic, Fiona! You’ve done such great work with both the fit and construction of this jacket. Brava!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks Mary! It’s so nice to have you say chic! I think I’m going to get a lot of wear out of this one

  • Sarah Gunn
    July 1, 2015

    That is one gorgeous jacket and your sewing is outstanding! WOWEE!

    • Fiona
      July 6, 2015

      Thanks so much Sarah! I could definitely see you in this jacket! It took a lot of patience this one but I’m glad I took my time as it’s definitely some of my better work

  • Cennetta
    July 17, 2015

    Fiona, Your jacket is beautifully made and suits you. Love the color, zippers detail, and simplicity of style.