Purple Tweed Suit
I’m so happy to showcase my first Mood Sewing Network project. As I perused the online fabric store, my thoughts were racing. There were so many possibilities. The online fabric choices are endless. It was hard to settle and pick one project AND one fabric to make something special for myself. Finally, I decided on a purple tweed and a rasberry pink poly charmeuse to make Vogue’s Badgley Mischka suit. This has been on my to-make list for over two years.
With the polar vortex back in Chiberia (Chicago), I can hardly believe that Spring is less than a month away. This suit will be in rotation for at least three months. So I made a great choice when I paired the pattern with this beautiful fabric. Tweed is often described as a rough, woolen cloth. This one is actually soft and supple. The natural fibers make it easy to sew, shape, and press. It was a dream to work with. Charmeuse was the perfect complement to the tweed. I lined both garments with it and used it to make the seam binding. With the charmeuse lining and the supple tweed fabrics together, the garments move smoothly as you wear them, adjusting fairly easily to unexpected activities like clambering over snowbanks.
This pattern is rated average. That is a fair assessment. The original pattern calls for the jacket to be unlined. But there are some details that make this suit stand out. The pronounced collar helps to soften the contours of someone with boxy shoulders like mine, and give the jacket a more regal air. The straight shape of the sleeves, curve into the armhole and back area to create a different design line in the jacket. The bound seams give it a polished and sophisticated touch.
I spent several hours making this suit. But none of the construction techniques were difficult. The seam binding takes a bit of time and patience to complete. In the end, the jacket is beautiful inside and out. I decided to make bound buttonholes and underline it to complete the polished look. The facing and the hem of the fully lined skirt are bound as well. And the invisible zipper completes the smooth exterior.
After I put the jacket together, I noticed the placement of the last buttonhole seemed a little low. I referred back to the pattern envelope to see if this was consistent with the photographed jacket. It was. I decided to lower the hem 1/2 inch and it looked better to me.
I used a sizes 14/16 adjustment based on my fitting needs. Of course, I made my usual FBA and prominent shoulder blade alteration adding a few inches to the length of the skirt and sleeves.
I am pleased with the outcome of this project and am ready for the next. The suit wears well. The fabric is not scratchy and does not constrain. Movement is effortless.