Ponte Knit and Stud Trim Dress

Every time I visit the Mood NYC, I stroll by the ponte aisle and lately I haven’t been disappointed.  I always find something new and unusual there. When I found this fabric, which I’m calling a laminated ponte, I knew immediately that I wanted to make a dress with it using Butterick 5821.

Laminated Ponte Dress

Now the pattern envelope isn’t that inviting but the line drawings highlight a dress with so much potential.  I knew the laminated ponte and a stud trim that I picked up from Mood’s trim department would yield an amazing dress.

Laminated Ponte Dress

As usual there were quite a few pattern alterations done to the pattern to make it fit me. As always, I started with my TNT dress pattern, making a pattern sandwich with it, the pattern pieces from Butterick 5821 and some tracing paper.

New pattern pieces were made insuring that the most important things from my TNT dress pattern, like making sure the bust dart was in the right place and that the pattern was wide enough for my body were copied to the new pieces.

After pattern alterations were done, I moved onto cutting out the fabric. I knew I wanted to highlight both the “right” and “wrong” sides of the fabric on the front of the dress, sort of like a checkerboard. So I used a single layout to cut the dress front pattern pieces to achieve that look.

Applying the Trim~

My first step was to add some Steam-A-Seam2 to the back of the trim, then hand press it down to the dress front to hold the trim in place while I applied it to the dress front. Then I added a few pins in strategic places to further insure that the trim didn’t move on the dress front while it was being applied. I did try to apply the pleather/stud trim to the front of the dress by using my zipper foot to stitch it down…but the zipper foot kept hitting the larger studs so that was a no go.

Laminated Ponte Dress

Handstitching ended up being the only way to get the trim added to the front of the garment in an unobtrusive way…but how? Slipstitch the edges or use small stitches; down the front? I went with handstitching it down using very, very small stitches on the front and longer ones on the back. This was perfect. The pics above are close ups of the application. The good thing is that it works and isn’t very obvious unless you’re up very close to me.  I can live with it!

Working with the fabric ~

I’m calling this a laminated ponte…I don’t know if that’s it’s real name but that’s what it seems like to me…because the fabric has a shiny front and a dull back. It’s just like working with regular ponte. I didn’t do anything differently except for lowering the temp on my iron but otherwise it sewed just like any other ponte I’ve worked with. I used a straight stitch length of 2.9 on my sewing machine, a size 80 Universal needle and serged finished all of the pieces prior to construction.

Construction ~

Besides the checkerboard application on the front of the dress, the rest of the dress’s construction was pretty straightforward. I did end up omitting the sleeves. I made them and even started to put them into the dress but they weren’t working.  So since I’m always hot anyway and will wear a cardigan with this dress, sleeveless works.

I did have to use the zipper foot to stitch the lining to the dress and to edgestitch the lining into the dress to avoid the first stud on the trim ~ it’s a bigun.  I also added lace to the hem of the lining.  It just seemed like the perfect complement to the rocker chic front of the dress.  Y’know hard and soft! *LOL*

The Finished Dress ~

I was really pleased with how the fabric and trim made this dress shine. It’s a little edgy but not too edgy for my very corporate work atmosphere…though I won’t be wearing this dress on the days that we have important clients and meetings going on in the office!

A few more views…

Laminated Ponte Dress

 

Laminated Ponte Dress

 

Laminated Ponte Dress

 

Laminated Ponte Dress

…as always more later!

Editor’s note: Ponte knit is such a friendly fabric to work with, we can see why Carolyn and the other Mood Sewing Network bloggers love to sew with it. Take a look at all the ponte knits we have online at MoodFabrics.com.

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Comments


  • Amanda S.
    January 8, 2013

    Neat idea! The trim looks great with it too.

    • Carolyn
      January 9, 2013

      Thanks Amanda! Except for adding the trim it was an easy sew!

  • Ginger
    January 8, 2013

    This is so cool! I love how you’ve made a basic silhouette look really edgy and modern.

    • Carolyn
      January 9, 2013

      Ginger – I love, love, love the trim and it is what gives the dress that edgy look! Thanks for appreciating my new dress!

  • Lauren
    January 8, 2013

    Omg, this is so awesome! I love the different sides of the fabric laid out in that checkerboard pattern with the addition of the studs. I think leaving off the sleeves was the best idea; sleeveless really really works. And it looks so good with a cardigan!

    • Carolyn
      January 9, 2013

      Lauren – thanks so much for your kind words! Can’t wait to see your first make for MSN!

  • Erica B
    January 8, 2013

    Love this dress Carolyn. It’s very jazzy!

  • Carolyn
    January 9, 2013

    Thanks Erica – your compliment is appreciated since you’re such a wonderful fashionista!

  • Laura
    January 10, 2013

    Love what you did with the Ponte knit….yes it’s a fabulous fabric but your choice of pattern, made it over the top!
    Laura

    • Carolyn
      January 12, 2013

      Thanks Laura! i really appreciate your kind words!

  • Cissie
    January 10, 2013

    Very kewl dress, Carolyn! Love the checkerboard look — and your trim looks good to my eyes! How would a fell stitch work on this sort of application?

    • Carolyn
      January 12, 2013

      Cissie – I really should have blogged about how to apply the trim instead of blightly forging ahead! Your suggestion is great and i will remember it because I still have two yards of the trim left to use on another garment!

  • Breyan
    January 10, 2013

    tres chic!

  • Sarah Gunn
    January 10, 2013

    You have a vision and the wherewithal to execute it! This dress is great, Carolyn!

  • Carolyn
    January 12, 2013

    Thanks Sarah!

  • Raina
    January 14, 2013

    Beautiful work! I love how you made use of both sides of the fabric.

    I had bought the same fabric at Mood last month a few weeks ago but don’t know how to wash it/prepare for sewing. Would you know the care requirements? I’m afraid I may melt it or something if I throw it in the wash like usual?

    • Carolyn
      January 15, 2013

      I threw the fabric in the wash and let it hang to dry. I pressed it on the synthetic setting on my iron using a silk organza press cloth. Other than that, I used it just like I would any other ponte knit. Good luck using the fabric, it makes a wonderful garment!

      • Raina
        January 15, 2013

        Thank you so much–huge help to know!

  • Amy
    January 25, 2013

    You always blow me away with your wonderful dress creations. I am amazed that you can take one pattern and create so many unique dresses with it. Bravo!