Peter Pan Collar Silk Charmeuse Blouse

Can y’all stand another silk blouse?

Silk blouse with Peter Pan collar sewn from Mood Fabrics' stretch silk charmeuse.

I made this one using Mood Fabric’s stone stretch silk charmeuse. Originally I picked this fabric to use for a nightgown with some other pretty brown lace. This must have been before I wised to the practice of ordering swatches because the browns didn’t match. I thought it would make a great neutral blouse for my wardrobe and it really does go with a number of other garments.

Silk blouse with Peter Pan collar sewn from Mood Fabrics' stretch silk charmeuse.

This was my first time using silk charmeuse with stretch and I love the ease of movement. I used the matte side for the body of the blouse because I thought the shiny side might be too fancy for my lifestyle. The shiny side can be seen when I roll the sleeves up slightly and also on the peter pan collar. At the back I used a button and thread loop for closure.

Silk blouse with Peter Pan collar sewn from Mood Fabrics' stretch silk charmeuse.

The pattern is Butterick 5817, which I made only a few months ago in a silk crepe de chine. This time around I used the peter pan collar applique. These types of collars are really in style, but I find most of them to be too prim and buttoned up for my taste. This one I liked because it still has a relatively normal rounded neckline. I don’t like to feel choked!

Silk blouse with Peter Pan collar sewn from Mood Fabrics' stretch silk charmeuse.

I deviated from the instructions by slip-stitching the collar applique to the blouse instead of top-stitching it down. It looks more like a real collar this way. When it came time to stitch the neckbinding down to the blouse on the inside, I only used the machine at the center front and on the back. The rest was slip-stitched down as well. You can see the slight puckering resulting from my hand stitches on the close-ups.

I used French seams throughout except at the center back. After using French seams at the armholes of my white and black polka dotted blouse last month, I decided to try them out again. The sleeves went in without issue, and this will be my go-to method for attaching sleeves in silk blouses from now on.

Here’s the blouse with the sleeve hem and bottom hem visible. On my previous blouse from this pattern I noted that the sleeve length was perfect without the need of attaching the cuffs. I didn’t even cut them out this time around.

Whew! It’s been an extremely frustrating month of sewing for me. I’m so happy to end on a positive note with such a pretty new blouse. You will probably see this pattern made up again a third time. Even though the example blouse on the pattern envelope is kind of ugly IMO, I still think that big bow applique could be really cute in the right fabric.

 

Silk blouse with Peter Pan collar sewn from Mood Fabrics' stretch silk charmeuse.

 

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Comments


  • Kimberly
    January 29, 2014

    Another well made product by you. I truly appreciate how your goods look as good on the inside as they do on the outside. Well done.

  • Peter
    January 29, 2014

    Wow — so elegant. I love the idea of mixing the matte and shiny sides for contrast. Nicely done!

  • Ginger
    January 29, 2014

    This is so chic, and in a really unexpected color! I love the contrast of the shiny collar– perfect choice! This is absolutely lovely, and as always, shows your impeccable attention to detail.

    • Amanda S.
      January 29, 2014

      Thanks Ginger! I really don’t own much brown, so it’s an unexpected color for me too.

  • Kate McIvor
    January 29, 2014

    I love both the fabric and the blouse. The peter pan collar looks sophisticated and not cute. I am inspired!

    • Amanda S.
      January 29, 2014

      Yay, I was going for that. Thanks Kate!

  • MadebyMeg
    January 29, 2014

    Gaaaaah this is so cute!! Wow I’m totally inspired. Well done!

    • Amanda S.
      January 29, 2014

      Thanks so much Meg!

  • Rachel
    January 29, 2014

    I would had not thought to pair brown with black jeans, and they look fabulous! Well done,

    • Amanda S.
      January 29, 2014

      This blouse looks a little gold-ish to me, and I love gold and black together. Thanks!

  • Fran Giacobbe
    January 29, 2014

    Wonderful blouse! You have made that pattern come alive! Love the use of contrasting sides of silk. I am impressed!

  • Virginia
    January 29, 2014

    It’s a really awesome effect. :-)

    • Amanda S.
      January 29, 2014

      Thank you Virginia!

  • Lori
    January 29, 2014

    I really like this, simple, classy and chic. Great job.

  • Martina
    January 29, 2014

    I have that pattern, and now I’m inspired to copy your version! Beautiful work!

    • Amanda S.
      January 30, 2014

      It’s a great pattern. I hope you like the fit as well as I do. Thanks!

  • Cissie
    January 30, 2014

    Love this blouse on you, Amanda. Using the wrong side of the fabric was brilliant. Plus, you get to have the luxury side next to your skin!

    • Amanda S.
      January 30, 2014

      Oh, I forgot to write about how nice the silky side feels next to the skin! Thanks for your comment!

  • oonaballoona
    January 30, 2014

    whoah nelly, or rather amanda–this is so classy and sexy at the same time. i never thought a peter pan collar could have that effect. gorgeous!!!

    • Amanda S.
      January 30, 2014

      Haha, classy and sexy. I take it! Thanks Marcy!

  • Cennetta
    January 30, 2014

    As always, very well made. This is a beautiful blouse. Great use of the fabric. Thank you for showing the details.

  • fangaroni
    January 30, 2014

    Really beautiful blouse! I would never have envisioned such a fabulous garment based on that pattern envelope picture! Thanks for the inspiration – I have a silver stretch silk charmeuse that I haven’t used because it does feel a bit too much, but I can follow your example and just use a little of the shiny side to get the wow factor!

    • Amanda S.
      January 30, 2014

      Thanks! I’ll bet that will be so pretty! I had a silver silk charmeuse once upon a time and unfortunately turned it into a wadder.

  • Zeila
    January 30, 2014

    You always do such exquisite work on slippery silks! I loved the French-seamed armscyes…thanks for the tip!

    • Amanda S.
      February 1, 2014

      Thanks Zeila! Those slippery fabric use to intimidate me but not so much anymore. Although I did ruin quite a few cuts learning how to work with it…

  • Sarah Gunn
    January 31, 2014

    I think this is exquisite Amanda! Such good choices you made in using the non shiny side of the silk for the majority of the blouse and in slipstitching the collar. Lovely result and blouse you will wear often :)

    • Amanda S.
      February 1, 2014

      Sarah, I did TRY to topstitch the collar down at first, but the stretch in the fabric made the stitching look terrible. One of the things I really enjoy about sewing is problem solving. Thanks!

  • Jennifer
    January 31, 2014

    Gorgeous!!!! You did an amazing job, perfect!!!!! This looks straight from one of the high end stores!!!!!!

    • Amanda S.
      February 1, 2014

      Thanks so much Jennifer!

  • Fredia
    January 31, 2014

    Love the idea of using contrasting sides of the fabric. Beautiful blouse!!! Can’t wait to see what you make next.

    • Amanda S.
      February 1, 2014

      Thanks Fredia! I’m trying to take a break from sewing blouses and make a dress instead. Hopefully it turns out!

  • Liz
    February 5, 2014

    This is just lovely on you Amanda. Very classy looking and can go from dressy to casual depending on accesories. Nice!

  • Eileen Oberlin
    February 6, 2014

    Amanda, Your sewing is meticulous! Can you take the
    time to tell me about your dressform? Did you have to
    go to NYC and have measurements taken or did you order
    your dressform by mail? Would you purchase it again?
    Thanks for answering my questions. I look forward to
    following your future projects on mood sewing network.

    • Amanda S.
      February 6, 2014

      Hi Eileen, thanks for your comment. Since this is Mood’s website and I did not get my dressform from them, I can’t really go into the details here. I did write about it on my blog when I purchased it several years ago, and you are welcome to comb through my labels for the information.

  • Cissie
    February 17, 2014

    Okay. You know what they say — imitation is the finest sort of flattery. So feel really flattered! I just finished my copy of your gorgeous blouse and am so happy with it. Love the pattern and love your brilliant idea of using the matte side of the fabric. And I have that yummy silky side next to my skin! How many of these blouses do I need???

    • Amanda S.
      February 17, 2014

      Awesome! I’m so happy you were inspired to make one too! What color did you use?

  • Cissie
    February 18, 2014

    I used a color billed as “French Vanilla” — a soft, buttery yellow hue. And I know how you feel about yellow!

    • Amanda S.
      February 20, 2014

      Oooh, I bet it’s lovely. Maybe I need a yellow one too…