Oscar de la Renta Bouclé Jacket with Leather Trim

The navy and black color combo is currently a very popular trend. Even though I still think you shouldn’t wear black shoes with a navy dress, I do like them together in fabrics or colorblocked. Which is why, when I spotted this black and almost-navy plaid boucle at Mood Fabrics, I knew I wanted it for something. It’s Oscar de la Renta fabric with metallic threads and tiny black sequins, and reminds me somewhat of the fabric used for this dress – also OdlR, and also with sequins.

Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pattern.

I decided on jacket 106 from the February 2013 Burda issue, but the quick muslin I made fitted horribly. The no-side-seams detail that I found somewhat interesting turned out to be woefully unflattering. So as not to have to find another similar style jacket and fit that to my body, I used another Burda pattern that I knew to be a perfect fit, 113 from the May 2011 issue, which I made and blogged about here. I transferred the neckline, length of the jacket and sleeves, and binding details, keeping the princess seams of 113.

Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa
The black leather was from my stash, from which I have made quite a few garments. This is my sixth garment using leather, and I don’t perspire out of nervousness anymore. The only issue I find that gives me any problem is its tendency to stretch too much while being stitched. Usually this is solved by stitching with the fabric side up. Leather can be ironed without issue, and I always use pins IN THE SEAM ALLOWANCE so that the holes they cause aren’t visible on the outside. I know other people use clips but I like to use pins and find they hold things more securely then clips.

Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa

I paid special attention when cutting the boucle out to match the plaids both horizontally and vertically. I also took special care to make sure they were lined up when stitched together. Oh, I forgot to mention that I underlined each boucle piece with polyester organza. The boucle has a very loose weave and the organza keeps it from fraying uncontrollably. Also, with organza attached, the construction stitches can be seen and removed if need be. Otherwise the thread disappears into the fabric and good luck clipping it out without cutting the fashion fabric.

Dressform pictures:Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa

Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa
Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa
Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pa

For the lining I used a black silk jacquard from Mood Fabrics. Their picture on my screen had a bit of a purple tint, which would have been fine to line this jacket with, but it indeed turned out to be black. I love the fun textural interest it gave the inside. The inner band facings are a wool sateen I got awhile ago from Mood, which has now completely sold out. They were completely interfaced before being stitched together. After the lining was in and all the seam grading had been done, I went around the entire band with needle and thread, stitching in the ditch between the leather/boucle and the sateen/lining. I do like handsewing but that left my thumb really sore.

Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pattern. Lining side shown here.

The last fun detail of this jacket is the oversized snaps used to hold it closed. I’ll probably never wear it that way because it somehow ended up a bit too snug, but I like the looks of the tough hardware with so refined a jacket.
Fitted jacket made from Oscar de la Renta bouclé from Mood Fabrics and a BurdaStyle pattern

There were twelve pieces to the jacket body (it has two-part sleeves). Multiply that by three for the boucle, organza and lining. Add in six multiplied by two for the bands and band facings and that’s 48 different pieces of fabric and leather! This jacket was a ton of work! I love it, though, and am excited to incorporate it into my cool-weather wardrobe in both dressy and casual stylings.

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Comments


  • carolyn roemer
    October 30, 2013

    Beautifully finished. Your leather bindings look perfectly flat. I like the jacket very much. I’m sure you’ll wear it with pleasure for many years.

  • anne jewell
    October 30, 2013

    just lovely!–anne

  • Sarah Clark
    October 30, 2013

    I love this jakcket. The leather gives it a little bit of edge. Much needed in the classic French jacket if you ask me.

    • Amanda S.
      October 30, 2013

      Thanks Sarah! I never knew these Chanel-type jackets were considered French, but it makes total sense.

  • Carolyn
    October 30, 2013

    This is gorgeous! I love the leather trim that you added to it!

  • Ginger
    October 30, 2013

    Wow! What a sweet little jacket! You can really see all the work you put into it– great job!

    • Amanda S.
      October 30, 2013

      Thanks so much Ginger!

  • Lori
    October 30, 2013

    This looks so good and I love the leather.

  • Pam
    October 30, 2013

    Beautiful Amanda — and stylish and on trend. I always love your results. Great idea on the lining (jacquard).

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2013

      Thank you Pam! I’m always on the hunt for fun silk linings these days!

  • Lori
    October 31, 2013

    Most impressive. Gives me something to aim for.

  • Sew Brunswick
    October 31, 2013

    Beautiful work. As always. I really want to try a classic French jacket with wool boucle body and leather sleeves. Love the contrast.

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2013

      Thanks Leith! I love the leather sleeved jacket trend too!

  • Sandra (Sewist-Stitch)
    October 31, 2013

    What an amazing jacket – to die for! I just whipped over to look at your previous jacket and LOVE, LOVE, LOVE that one as well. You would never know that they are the same pattern. Your workmanship is impeccable.

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2013

      Thank you Sandra!

  • Manju
    October 31, 2013

    Beautifully sewn as ever. Such a classic piece to have in your wardrobe and the leather trim is perfect.

  • Patty
    October 31, 2013

    Lovely! I appreciate your attention to detail.

  • Lynn Mally
    October 31, 2013

    Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. Such a wonderful combination of beautiful fabric, simple lines, and outstanding construction!

  • Sufiya
    October 31, 2013

    FABULOUS! So beautifully executed! The leather trim is flawless ,as is the fit! I am envious!

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2013

      Thanks so much Sufiya!

  • Diana
    October 31, 2013

    Oh, this is just gorgeous Amanda! (actually, everything you make is gorgeous. I really like your taste in clothes!) I ‘m very partial to the leather trim on a garment and yours is just right!

    • Amanda S.
      October 31, 2013

      What a nice compliment, Diana – thanks!

  • Amy
    October 31, 2013

    Wow. What a jacket! You always make such nice pieces. The leather trim is a perfect compliment to the shape and style of the jacket. And, it goes perfectly with that amazing boucle!

  • Alyce Ferguson
    November 4, 2013

    Absolutely superb! Beautiful work and a gorgeous color. Enjoy.

  • DebB
    November 6, 2013

    That jacket is a stunner! Congratulations on such a successful morphing of two patterns. I really want to try sewing leather – this just makes me want it more!

    • Amanda S.
      November 8, 2013

      Thanks DebB! You should go for it! Leather really isn’t all that hard to work with, as long as you have the fit perfected before you start.