Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

(Greetings from Meg at Mood! The Mood Sewing Network bloggers are letting me participate in this month’s Lace Challenge. Here’s my take on lace.)

Ok, I admit it. I am crazily obsessed with bomber jackets this spring. This is the second bomber jacket I’ve made in a month, and I’m working on number three right now. They’re easy to make, easy to wear, so what’s not to love?

Version #2, graciously modeled above by Marianne, is made from neoprene and lace using Burda pattern 7210, available at Simplicity.com. (You can get more pattern and sewing details here on the Mood Sewciety blog, where I wrote about Bomber Jacket #1, made of Marc Jacobs cotton brocade.) Readers, I cannot stop singing the praises of this particular neoprene we carry at Mood Fabrics. It was made in Italy for Bill Blass, and it has a soft and spongey hand. Very similar to a double knit in weight and stretch, but much more pleasant to wear. This bomber jacket feels like a cozy sweater, that’s how comfy it is. And Style.com calls neoprene the “material of the moment.” (You know me, I’m a shameless trend follower.)

Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

I needed a solid, light-colored jacket in my wardrobe, so I was never interested in adding color once I had decided on using this ivory neoprene. To add a little bit of contrast and texture, though, I placed re-embroidered poly lace on top of the bodice panels in the front and back. I’m really pleased with how this looks. And it also goes to show how pairing disparate fabrics like neoprene and lace can work well together. In fact, the reason why I think this jacket works is that it pairs high and low: You’ve got an athletic-style jacket meant for jocks, but here it becomes soft and feminine with the introduction of lace.

Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

I opted not to line this jacket, as neoprene doesn’t require a lining at all. To finish the seams I serged them together, then bound them with narrow petersham ribbon (stitched by hand) to finish them off. Note: I actually don’t recommend serging the seams of this neoprene fabric, as they end up being rather thick. For a jacket I think I’d try a Hong Kong seam finish; for a dress I might stitch near the seam allowance edge and then pink the edges. Or maybe stitch seams, press open, serge the edges. At any rate, test seam finishes before you proceed with your neoprene garment.

Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

Other construction details:
- I attached the zipper (a Riri) by pick-stitch, allowing the silver metal teeth to show
- I topstitched the seam that goes down the outside center of the sleeve, and I like the way this provides a sporty accent
- The pocket bags are made of ivory four-ply silk I had in my stash (always hang on to silk scraps large enough to cut pockets and/or bias trim from)

Neoprene and Lace Bomber Jacket

(Above, some examples of neoprene fashions found at Net-a-Porter: (l-r)  T by Alexander Wang neoprene dress, Clover Canyon printed neoprene skirt, Tibi lace and neoprene sweatshirt. The Tibi may have been the subconscious inspiration for my bomber jacket.)

Neoprene is a delight to sew, because it doesn’t fray or slip around on you, and it’s great to wear. It feels like a  double knit but it’s better at containing the jiggly bits most of us have. Since neoprene comes in all different weights and textures, always get a swatch first if you’re ordering online. Mood NYC carries this particular Bill Blass neoprene in the ivory I used here and in navy and purple as well; call 212-730-5003 and ask for the wool department if you interested in it ($25/yard; very limited quantities). Laces are available here and in both stores.

So I’m off to put the welt pockets in Bomber Jacket #3, where I’m pairing a silver metallic brocade front and back with taupe leather sleeves. Fretting a bit about the lightness of the bodice and wondering if I used enough interlining for support, but I think it’s gonna be ok. Stay tuned for the reveal! –Meg at Mood

19

Comments


  • Tee
    March 25, 2013

    This jacket is soooo rich looking! I will be ordering some of that neoprene for sure!!!

  • Elizabeth
    March 25, 2013

    Wow, this jacket is a stunner. Love it.

  • Carolyn
    March 25, 2013

    Love the lace & neoprene combination! This is fantastic!

  • Trisha
    March 25, 2013

    This is why I love sewing blogs. If someone told me that I would love an ivory neoprene and lace bomber jacket, I would have laughed. But I’m in love with this jacket. And seriously considering shamelessly copying you!

  • Ginger
    March 25, 2013

    Wow! This is killer! What an ingenious combination!

  • Sarah Gunn
    March 25, 2013

    Innovative and gorgeous! I want that jacket!

  • Sadie
    March 25, 2013

    HOT! I love it.

  • Lori
    March 25, 2013

    Meg, this jacket is gorgeous. Amazing job.

  • Ms. McCall
    March 25, 2013

    I have plans for a bright orange velvet bomber jacket – could you recommend any ribbing for the neck and waistband?

    (for those of us who don’t have the chutzpah for a neoprene bomber)

    Thanks!!

    • Mood Sewing Network
      March 25, 2013

      Ms. McCall, you don’t actually need to use ribbing. You can use a matching satin, for example, and encase elastic in it (think elastic waistband to get the basic idea of what I’m talking about). That’s what I did with the first bomber jacket I made. Finding ribbing to match is hard, even when you work at Mood Fabrics and have so much to choose from. But just look for any knit that can hold a stretch and hug your wrist.

  • Lauren
    March 25, 2013

    This is AWESOME. I would never think of making a white bomber jacket with a lace overlay, but omg it works so so well.

  • toy
    March 26, 2013

    Interesting, i would have never thought about using lace for a bomber jacket. Looks Fab!

  • oonaballoona
    March 27, 2013

    soooooo incredibly chic. i am now officially lusting after neoprene.

  • Kay
    March 28, 2013

    It is a pretty and classy garment.

  • Janine Whisler
    March 29, 2013

    Wow, this is so great, such a leap of faith really. Who would have thought, lace and Neoprene, this just blows my mind.

  • Hazel
    March 29, 2013

    I love this one too Meg! I’ve totally got to make own now, although I’m not quite sure I’m brave enough to do a lace overlay!

  • Amy
    March 29, 2013

    Gorgeous! I love it. What an amazing use of lace. I’m so inspired!

  • anne jewell
    April 18, 2013

    inspired!

  • Peter
    April 22, 2013

    What a great combo — inspired!