Navy Cotton Twill Ginger Pants

Happy Halloween, everyone! I wish I had something ~spooooky~ to share with y’all today, but I’m afraid (lolz) that I’ve been pretty boring this year in terms of sweet Halloween costumes. Instead, my sewing has been strictly practical – in the case of this month, I made some new pants! Can’t go wrong with a nice pair of pants, amirite.

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - front

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - front

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - back

The Ginger Jeans pattern from Closet Case Files has long been a pants-staple of mine, although I primarily use this pattern to make jeans (I should add – with much success! It’s a GREAT jeans pattern). I’m pretty stocked up as far as jeans go, now, so I was looking to branch out and use this pattern to make some neutral colored cotton twill pants. I did this last year for the Mood Sewing Network, and I still love those red jeans so much! I have been looking for a good stretch twill to make more in other colors, and I’m so happy to have found a suitable navy to start with!

I have mentioned this before, but I have a lot of issues with finding good stretch bottomweight fabrics just from ordering online. It’s really hard to gauge exactly what you are getting just based on a photo and a description – I personally I like to be able to handle the fabric, feel how much stretch it has and how thick it is, and how the recovery holds up. So I tend to save my purchases for these sorts of things while I’m in NY, so I can go to the Mood Fabrics store and feel up all the offerings. I found this navy cotton twill while I was there in March – it’s a good lighter bottom weight (as in, it’s about the lightest weight one can get away with calling a bottomweight, if that makes sense!), which I’ve found I really prefer in my pants. I like my fabric to be reasonably lightweight and also really stretchy! It is definitely more like a cotton sateen than a cotton twill – there’s a shinier side, which looks nice and kind of luxe, but as you can see, it also really highlights every single wrinkle on these pants!

I’ve made this pattern before numerous times, so the sewing part wasn’t much different than how I normally go about assembling. One thing I did change this go-around was how I applied the topstitching – in the past, I’ve used proper topstitching thread, but I didn’t have any on hand while I was making these pants. Instead, I used my normal polyester thread – but I used the triple stitch on my machine, which sews over the same area a couple of times to make for a thicker topstitch. You get the same effect as you do with topstitching thread, although go forbid you have to rip any over it out (and thus is the scary part of my post, I guess, because GAH). It’s also a bit slower, since your machine is going back and forth with each stitch – instead of just blasting forward – but it’s still better than having to run to the store to buy a new spool of topstitching thread 😉

I kept these sleek with matching topstitching and didn’t add any rivets or weirdly colored bartacks (there are bartacks – at the fly and also along the tops of the back pockets – but they are in the same navy thread as the rest of the topstitching). The pocketing is some striped cotton I bought agesssss ago at Mood Fabrics that I basically only use to make pockets with 😉 I hemmed these a little long so they’d bunch up slightly at the ankles when I wear them uncuffed, but they look good cuffed, too!

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - flat

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - flat

Navy Cotton twill Ginger Pants - flat

Now, if only pants-weather was a thing happening around here! What is UP with this weird warm end-of-fall weather, anyway? I’m kind of upset that I didn’t take advantage of this year’s Halloween – it would have been the first year I didn’t have to plan my costume around a coat 😉



  • Karen
    October 31, 2016

    Know what you mean about iffy pants fabric purchasing online. These pants look great and love the pocket fabric.

  • PsychicSewerKathleen
    November 1, 2016

    I love your pants! (as I love ‘most everything you make) I have that ginger jeans pattern (and accompanying ebook too) but it still feels above my skill level. I haven’t done anything that like zipper and getting the fit as good as yours is just well…”impossible” comes to mind 🙂 I’ve made some pants (Sandra Betzina’s patterns are good) and I like them but they aren’t perfect by any means and I’m a pretty easy fit with RTW so it’s just always so easy to just buy a pair 🙂

  • Fiona
    November 6, 2016

    That is some commitment to topstitching! It is all so beautiful though! Love the the clean look of these without contrast topstitching and rivets etc