Military Jacket in Cotton Twill

Military jackets are very trendy right now. Last fall I made plans to make one, but didn’t get around to it until now. I used a thick cotton twill in aubergine from MoodFabrics.com. It was easy to work with and has a great woven texture which you can see in some of the close ups.

Cotton Twill Jacket

This was the only design I liked from the May 2011 issue of Burda style. It is chalk full of interesting details: 20 buttons!, topstitching, sleeve cuffs, shoulder tabs, folding back front lapels, slanting back yokes and back belt. I opted not to trim it in bias strips per the instructions. I also added a full lining and shoulder pads.

Cotton Twill Jacket

After making a muslin, I added 1.5″ to the overall length at the waist and .75″ to the center back seam. The front dart was altered to slant up a bit. Both the inner and outer collar were fused with interfacing. Since my fabric was fairly thick, I left off all other interfacing suggested in the pattern instructions. I did iron small squares of it to the inside where the buttons were sewn on.

I moved the buttonhole placement on the cuffs over to 5/8″ from the edges. The back belt buttonholes were also stitched 5/8″ from the edges.
Cotton Twill Jacket

I initially had some trouble finding buttons for this jacket. I knew I wanted a military crest of some sort, but all of the ones I looked at locally did not have their crests attached the same way on each button, resulting in the crests facing all different directions. For the first time ever I ordered buttons online. These also came from Mood. The buttons on the shoulders, back belt and sleeves are the 20mm size. The ones on the front are 23mm.

Cotton Twill Jacket
Cotton Twill Jacket

I really love how the sleeves have built in forward curves to them.

Cotton Twill Jacket

Here you can see the twill texture a lot better. The fabric has such a nice depth to it that my topstitching sinks in ever so slightly.

Cotton Twill Jacket

I attached the outer collar to the jacket body and sewed the inner collar to the lining. Then I stitched the body to the lining along the edges, graded the seams, and turned it right side out. I stitched in the ditch by hand all along where the collar meets the body so that none of the seams allowances could turn up on the inside and become bulky.

Cotton Twill Jacket

I put a dab of fray check on the corners of the shoulder tabs after I turned them to prevent them from raveling out.

Cotton Twill Jacket

The lining is bemberg Ambiance. I happened to find a really good color match locally.

Cotton Twill Jacket

I had a lot of fun making this jacket. The details were challenging but not fiddly and I got to do loads of hand sewing.

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Comments


  • Ginger
    November 28, 2012

    WOW! Just, WOW. I love that you took the military jacket style and made it in a color that’s all your own! Great job, girl!

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      Thanks, Ginger. I decided I needed more purple in my wardrobe!

  • Angie
    November 28, 2012

    Impeccable Job! It’s gorgeous. You must be very proud!

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      A nicely fitted jacket always puts a bit of pep in my step. Thanks, Angie!

  • Caroline
    November 28, 2012

    That’s a wonderful piece. I love it! Now I’m going to have to pull out that Burda and give the pattern another look. It didn’t inspire me in the mag but your version is making me think I need my own! Great fabric choice. Very on-trend color.

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      The magazine’s examples did not inspire me either, Caroline, but the drawings showed excellent lines. Thanks!

  • Lora
    November 28, 2012

    This is the cutest military-style jacket I’ve seen. Great job!

  • Erica B.
    November 28, 2012

    That is such a great jacket!

  • Barbara Stone
    November 28, 2012

    Beautiful craftsmanship and interesting fabric.

  • Gail
    November 28, 2012

    Beautiful job – I am sure you will enjoy wearing this lovely for a long time to come. Keep up the nice work!

  • Carolyn
    November 28, 2012

    It’s stunning and I love the aubergine color!

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      I’m trying to add colors to my wardrobe that I don’t have much of, and purple is one of those colors. Thanks!

  • Cidell
    November 28, 2012

    I’m planning on making this exact same jacket in the same fabric in a navy or white colorway for my 2013 SWAP – LOL! Thank you for doing the work for me. Plus, you must never stop sewing Burda and military style clothes. I love every single one.

    • Amy
      November 28, 2012

      You’re going to do the SWAP this year? I had so much fun with it last year, but I was worried I wouldn’t have time with MSN. Hmmm… Now you’ve got me thinking…

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      Thanks, Renee! I think it would be so unique is white, but also very traditional in navy.

  • Breyan
    November 28, 2012

    This is really fantastic . Really.

  • Rose-Marie
    November 28, 2012

    Gorgeous! You did a beautiful job. The pattern is lovely and the aubergine is a stunning color. This jacket is both very current and timeless, a tricky pairing which you pulled off beautifully. Enjoy wearing this!

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      Currant and timeless – what a great compliment, Rose-Marie. Thanks!

  • Amy
    November 28, 2012

    I like everything about this jacket. Great job! You really are such an impressive seamstress. You knock me out every month.

  • Cissie
    November 29, 2012

    What an amazing job you did, Amanda. Absolute perfection — and the style is great on you!

  • Janine Whisler
    November 29, 2012

    I love everything about this design, color, fabric texture and pattern. Thanks for your fray check tip, I had one of those
    ‘duh….why didn’t I think of that’ moments. I appreciate your perfectionism, you did this jacket justice!

    • Amanda S.
      December 6, 2012

      I do love the fray-check! Thanks Janine.

  • Sarah Gunn
    December 2, 2012

    Super jacket, Amanda!

  • Amanda S.
    December 6, 2012

    Thank you Sarah!

  • anne jewell
    December 15, 2012

    great interpretation! congratulations!