Men’s Donegal Tweed Winter Coat

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

With winter on the horizon, it’s time for true cold weather outerwear.  For me, that means wool.

At Mood Fabrics NYC, I found a lovely donegal tweed — the name generally given to tweeds with bits of yarn in other colors woven in, even if they’re not made in County Donegal, Ireland.  This one is mainly a brown salt and pepper, but as you can see, there are other colors too, like rust and beige.  The weave is coarse but the hand is quite soft. Editor’s note: Lots of great pea coat fabric options at MoodFabrics.com.

For the lining, I chose a beautiful brown Bemberg rayon.  Rayon tends to hold up better than silk and, like my wool, breathes.

The genuine horn buttons are also from Mood Fabrics.  A coat like this deserves something special.

My pattern is another peacoat (#5) from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s Japanese men’s coat pattern book.  The coat is interfaced with haircloth throughout, along with heavy muslin (for back stay and sleeve cap backing), with a sheer knit fusible interfacing in the front facings.  My primary guide for the understructure was the book “Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.”

I have never done so much hand stitching but the results are worth it.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

I had my buttonholes made in the Garment District at Jonathan Embroidery.   They did a beautiful job.

This coat is perhaps my favorite project ever.   And how lucky, on a Mood project photo shoot, to be dressed appropriately for the weather!

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

After five minutes of cold, the relative warmth of a local garage beckoned!

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

Men's classic pea coat made with Donegal tweed from Mood Fabrics NYC.

This coat took me many hours to complete but I learned a lot in the process.  I have overcome my fear of working with hair canvas, and my repertoire of hand stitches has grown tremendously.  Wool tweed is a pleasure to work with and the result is, unarguably, classic.  All in all, a great experience.

A happy holiday to all — see you in the new year!

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Comments


  • Paula
    December 19, 2013

    Wow! I’ve been looking forward to seeing the completion of this stunning project. The wait was worth it. Congratulations for staying the course of this tailoring challenge. Such beautiful work.

  • carolyn roemer
    December 19, 2013

    Great coat. Good fit. Well tailored. So lucky to live in a big city to be able to have expert button hole makers and machines at your disposal. My heavy coat will have a loop and button to avoid the button hole problem .

  • Elizabeth
    December 19, 2013

    This coat is so beautiful. It looks professional and awesome. Great work Peter.

  • Erica B.
    December 19, 2013

    Peter, this coat is beautiful! I’ve been saying I’m going to make my husband a pea coat. And this has pushed me over the edge! And I’m so jealous of the professional buttonholes!

  • Maggie
    December 19, 2013

    That coat is fabulous! Wear it with pride.

  • Jane
    December 19, 2013

    Fantastic!

    PS, Mood, do you have a quick share button? I’d love to share the post on Twitter!

  • Lori
    December 19, 2013

    This is stunning, Peter, you look great in your jacket. You hard work paid off in a great way, they coat is just spectacular.

  • Sunni
    December 19, 2013

    It is GORGEOUS! I adore the fabric you picked for this coat and the execution is unbelievably amazing. Lovely Peter!

  • Mary
    December 19, 2013

    Fantastic job!!! I love it! I am so jealous of your professional buttonholes. Love the styling too!

  • Tiffany
    December 19, 2013

    Very nice! Makes me want to get back to work on my winter jacket – sigh, wish I could just stay home and sew all day, but I have to work. haha

  • K-Line
    December 19, 2013

    Gorgeous!

  • Manju
    December 19, 2013

    Completely worth the time. Just so professional, timeless and elegant. Perfect!

  • Francesca
    December 19, 2013

    My favorite part is the red boots. I love red shoes.

  • Marianne
    December 19, 2013

    Amazing!

  • Kimberly
    December 19, 2013

    This was very good work. Thanks for sharing this.

  • Amanda S.
    December 19, 2013

    All your hard work was totally worth it, you’ll wear this for years and years. Awesome job!

  • Ginger
    December 19, 2013

    This is absolutely gorgeous! I love it! And I love how you’ve styled it– I’m pro urban lumberjack! ;)

  • Celeste
    December 19, 2013

    Absolutely perfect….and i love the urban lumberjack style underneath–it really suits you. I was really looking forward to this reveal, and your efforts really paid off!

  • Lauren
    December 19, 2013

    Wow, Peter, I hate you so much right now. Haha kidding! I love you AND your coat, even if it does make me look bad in comparison :) love those inside shots- the hand stitching on the hair canvas is just as pretty as the outside! And that tweed looks great with your coloring. Fabulous job, as always.

  • Ben
    December 19, 2013

    Chapeau!

  • Alex in California
    December 19, 2013

    A major triumph!

  • Joanne
    December 19, 2013

    Your coat is fabulous! Your hard work really shows!

  • Holly
    December 19, 2013

    I love the coat! It’ve had this book for a while with the intention of making my man a coat from it and you’ve re-inspired me. I also love that you and sporting the lumberjack look :)

  • amanda
    December 19, 2013

    This jacket is amazing! I would love to wear it!!

  • Nancy K
    December 19, 2013

    It’s wonderful Peter! Everything is done to perfection. I’ll be in to get my next coat buttonholes done at Jonathon Embroidery. For you it’s a quick walk, but it’s still worth it to me to get such perfect professional looking buttonholes.
    Working with wool tweed is such a treat.

  • Sue
    December 19, 2013

    Love it!

  • The Nerdy Seamstress
    December 19, 2013

    This is amazing! Your coat is amazing. I love how fitted and tailored it is! :) It kind of gives me the courage to work on a whole jacket for my mister as well! Yikes! It’s good to know that your hand stitches improved. I hope mine will improve as well.

  • Kenneth D. King
    December 19, 2013

    GREAT JOB! What a handsome coat!

  • Lisa E
    December 19, 2013

    I agree. Your best work ever!

  • Kyle
    December 19, 2013

    OMG Peter, that coat is AMAZEBALLS!

  • Cherie
    December 19, 2013

    OMG, Peter, this is truly wonderful! Love the photoshoot also, shows the coat in its fineness. Your inner workings are great, too! Your choice of fabric to pattern is flawless! This coat pattern is so terrific because of all the interesting details, and what a job you did with them! Great work!

  • Pat King
    December 19, 2013

    It’s wonderful, Peter. I have really enjoyed the journey on this project; what a perfect day for a photo shoot. The urban lumberjack styling works so well. Congratulations on a job amazingly well done – you will enjoy this for years to come.

  • Sarah Gunn
    December 19, 2013

    This is some kind of coat Peter! Congratulations on its completion :) I’ve learned a huge amount of information just reading your post – Haircloth for starters!
    Merry Christmas!

  • Clio
    December 20, 2013

    Everything about your coat is perfect! Amazing!

  • Vicki
    December 20, 2013

    Well done Peter! You have come so far. You do amazing work.

  • Nathalie
    December 20, 2013

    Flawless coat and the fit is perfect. I’m currently making a Harris Tweed overcoat for my husband and if the result looks anywhere near as professional as your peacoat, I’ll be very happy indeed!

  • Carina
    December 20, 2013

    Congratulations Peter! Your coat is awesome, truly a masterpiece!

  • Emma Jayne
    December 20, 2013

    Even if you didn’t make the button holes yourself ;) it’s still an amazing coat. Hope you enjoy wearing it… looks like you need it in that weather!

  • Becky
    December 20, 2013

    It has been a treat to watch your skills keep improving, and I am really impressed at how you push yourself. This coat is just fabulous, and I am glad you are happy with it. It is a classic coat that will last a long while. Your execution is masterful.

  • Valerie
    December 20, 2013

    It really is a classic. You did a masterful job with this. Absolutely lovely!

  • devra
    December 20, 2013

    beautiful job, peter. i am lusting after that perfect lapel notch – my particular achilles heel when it comes to tailoring a jacket!

  • Autumn
    December 20, 2013

    You are very handsome in your new coat and lumberjack styling.

  • Haylee
    December 20, 2013

    WOW. Peter this is amazing, I absolutely love it and I love the way you wore it/styled it as well. Looks great with that red!

  • Peter
    December 20, 2013

    Thanks, everyone!

  • Amy
    December 20, 2013

    Wow oh wow. What a coat! It’s hard to believe you stepped it up from last month, but you did! A classic coat to finish out the year. Bravo, Peter!

  • oonaballoona
    December 20, 2013

    i saw this earlier and was too jealous to comment. or was it that i needed to hide its existence from ruggy? a little bit of column a, a little bit of column b……

  • Shelley
    December 21, 2013

    That coat is truly beautiful! Exquisitely made and such a nice design. My husband recently bought a coat with the Patrick Grant label and I can’t say I’m a fan of it at all… I may never let him out on his own again! Well done on making a gorgeous garment!

  • Fiona
    December 21, 2013

    Really, really amazing Peter! It makes me get itchy fingers to tackle such a big project myself. The fabric is perfect for it and the style is perfect for you

  • Pamela O'Connor
    December 23, 2013

    Dashing, debonair, and what lovely insides! One again, you inspire!

  • Janine
    December 23, 2013

    Such QUALITY workmanship. A true test of your talent, well done!

  • Marguerite
    December 28, 2013

    Just as I suspected…a simply gorgeous garment. The tweed was a true inspiration, classic but distinctive at the same time. Wear it in good health all winter!

  • Tiffany
    January 1, 2014

    Peter!!! It’s FABULOUS!! You really make the hard work look worth it!!

  • Holley
    January 2, 2014

    Great job peter! I am afraid I would never actually finish a coat but would love to try it, minus the hair coat business! I am also jealous of all your resources and fun buys in NYC!!
    Holley in Roseville Mn

  • crystalpleats
    January 3, 2014

    I just love how this turned out. The whole look is great.

  • Steve Webb
    January 5, 2014

    I’ve been looking for something a little different on line and stumbled across your site/coat, it looks fantastic, just a pity you’re not in Manchester, England to make me one.

  • Mary Grace
    January 12, 2014

    Wow you look sharp! This is awesome Peter! And thanks for the tip about lining fabric!