Men’s Cotton Twill Toggle Jacket
Seems to be coat season over here on the Mood Sewing Network! And for good reason – have you ever made a coat before? IT’S SO MUCH FUN.
For my one unselfish moment of 2014 (everybody gets one), I decided to channel that energy into a new piece of outerwear for my boyfriend, Landon. Like I said, I love making coats, and I was already up and ready to make another (what? I told you they are fun!) – so I figured I’d kill two birds with one stone and make a coat for Landon. Ain’t I so sweet?
Let’s not mention that I promised this coat to Landon nearly a year ago – as in, bought the fabrics, made the muslin, got mad at the muslin, and stuffed it in a box. At least he knew better than to ask for it again until a nice, long incubation period where that muslin could sit in it’s box and think about all it had done wrong with it’s life.
Right as the holidays started closing in, I decided it was time to finish up the coat. So we made another muslin (turns out all the fitting changes that were giving me a headache the first go-round weren’t an issue now. I don’t know how that happened. Christmas miracle, I guess?) and I got crackin’ on coat construction. Surprisingly, the actual assembly part only took about a week of off-and-on work – making a simple jacket like this (yeah, it’s technically a jacket, shh) isn’t difficult, nor very time-consuming. Everything came together beautifully.
I used the Albion by Colette Patterns, the shorter jacket version in a size XS with some minor fitting changes (which I will go over on my personal sewing blog, no worries!). For fabric, I used cotton twill for the outer, and plaid wool flannel for the body lining. The sleeves are lined with silk charmeuse (to aid with getting the jacket on, and also for warmth – cotton isn’t very warm, but wool and silk are!). We chose these horn toggles from Mood Fabrics as well, and the leather patches and cotton cording are from my stash.
Like I said, assembly of this jacket was pretty straightforward. I used a standard 80/12 needle on everything (including the leather patches!). I think the biggest aid for this kind of sewing is, honestly, time. Time and a really good iron – you will be doing a lot of pressing, and it can really make or break your project (another good reason to consider natural fibers – they respond better to pressing!). I also added a lot of topstitching to give the jacket a nice look. I used my #10 edgestitching foot (for my Bernina), which is really great for keeping those stitching lines nice and straight.
I’m happy to say that Landon loves his new jacket – he’s worn it pretty much nonstop since I finished it (seriously – as soon as I was done, he put it on to wear around the house). He’s been showing it off to his family and friends; I think he’s more proud of it than I am! I’m just happy to make him happy. Plus, now I’m off the hook for another year