Crazy Aztec Wool Jacket
One thing I look forward to sewing every year is a new winter coat. I spend my summer planning out all the details and collecting fabrics and notions (PROTIP: While coatmaking can be expensive, the cost hurts a lot less if you buy the goods in phases haha), so that I’m ready to sew it up once the weather cools down. My last two coats have also been MSN projects – a dramatic, designer-inspired red wool coat and a black and white checked plaid wool peacoat straight outta the 1970s. I just love making coats, you guys.
Since I’m well-covered on the heavy winter coat front (pun intended, I think), I decided to make this year’s coat into something more lightweight, for those transitional/mild winter days. I also wanted my coat to have a hood, to cover my head in case it rains! I actually found the fabric waaay before any pattern came into mind – it’s this ridiculously awesome Navy Aztec Virgin Wool coating, and I’ve been hoarding a sizable piece of it for months. I never can seem to find fabric with this kind of cool design, so I was really excited to find it on the Mood Fabrics website! It’s a pretty lightweight wool, so I knew it would be perfect for a more lightweight jacket, rather than another heavy winter coat.
I used the Waver Jacket from Papercut Patterns for my pattern. I made no fitting changes to my size; the only changes I made were to trade out the drawstring at the waistline for wide elastic and add inseam side pockets. Matching the lines of this print across the front and back of the jacket, as well as the raglan sleeves, was a little challenging, but I made it work!
I love the big front patch pockets (those I did really agonize to match perfectly – and they are super camouflaged as a result, yay! haha) and I LOOOVE the hood! The hood is three pieces, so it really fits on your head nicely and doesn’t fall off. I added a big crazy fur trim around the perimeter of the hood, for some extra coziness and also because it looks freaking awesome! The fur is also from Mood Fabrics – it’s a faux white fur with black tips and it’s incredible how nice the quality is. Having really only sewn with cheap faux fur in the past, this one isn’t necessarily any easier to deal with – but it feels SO much nicer, almost as nice as real fur! I also really love the two-tone color, and I think it looks really good with the wool coating. I actually made this fur bit removable, just in case I get tired of it in the future and want to take it off. I doubt that will ever happen, but I like having options!
I spent far too long worrying about what color lining to include with this coat. The fun side of me wanted to do one of the cool colors in the print – a bright orange or that beautiful teal. But the practical side of me doesn’t like super contrasty linings (except for the red in my black and white checked coat – I have no regrets about that one!). So I ordered a bunch of swatches and ultimately settled on an English blue silk charmeuse from Mood Fabrics (which appears to be sold out now. Sorry!). I love using silk charmeuse to line my coats – the fabric is easier to handle than china silk or even Bemberg rayon, and the color is so deep and rich. And while I don’t like shiny silk for my clothes, I do like shiny silk for a coat lining! Look at it! It’s so lush!
Since this is a casual, lightweight jacket, there wasn’t a lot of ~crazy coat tailoring~ that went into this project. I mostly followed the instructions on the pattern, except I did have to change some of the order of construction to get the waistline elastic in. I added a back stay (cut from plain muslin) and catch-stitched down all the seam allowances of the wool coating, so that they’d stay flat as I wear the coat. I’ll have a full rundown of all the construction that went into this coat on my blog in a day or two. It’s a lot of information, and I like to keep the posts here on MSN pretty short and sweet!
A lighter-weight jacket like this – especially with a hood! – is a great addition for my winter wardrobe. The winters down here tend to be mild for the majority of the season, so this little jacket will see lots of use once the temperature cools down just a little bit more. I’ve always been a believer that your outerwear should be fabulous, since it gets worn so much during the winter, and I think this bold jacket fits the bill quite nicely!