A Ladylike Skirt in stretch cotton polka dot twill
I had an urge to make a ‘ladylike’ skirt nothing too fancy, just a feminine everyday skirt. I’m typically a jeans & tee person – or long, long maxi skirts and dresses. However they don’t always suit the event, company, location or weather.
I fell in love with the denim tones of this cotton stretch twill from Mood Fabrics NY. I thought if I can’t wear jeans I might as well embraced the colour scheme!
Unfortunately this shade of fabric has sold out however the beauty of Mood Fabrics is that there is a seemingly endless array of fabrics and still plenty left in this stretch cotton twill range, including Navy, Green, Yellow, Red, Blue, Black, White and Orange.
I adore fancy fabrics as much as the next stitcher. However I don’t think all our sewing projects to be ‘fancy’, made from silks and high-end fabrics. So I decided to set about discovering the joys of some practical cotton and have some fun. Don’t get me wrong – silks and the like are utterly delightful and I’ve sewn quite a few and loved it. However, I do value clothes that I can toss in the washing machine along with the rest of the family’s laundry. As a full-time working mum, sometimes practicality wins out!
This fabric is completely opaque, making it perfect for a wide range of garments. I think because of its one directional stretch, the flattering fit-and-flare dresses or a classic 1950 silhouette dresses are a great option.
I had planned initially to make a shirtdress. However once I had it in my sewing room, I decided a full dress of polka dots might overwhelm me. So I finally settled on a skirt.
I love the midi skirt trend but my first attempt some time ago was not a huge success. When I happened upon Vogue 9090 with its fitted yoke, pleats and pockets, it seemed like a match made in heaven. The design provides plenty of feminine shape without ballooning from a waistband. I love a smooth, well-fitted yoke on a skirt.
Yes, there are side pockets. Nice deep pockets – which are also sewn into the waistband. I prefer these types of pockets as they don’t flap about and make the line of the garment untidy.
The beauty of this fabric is there isn’t too many secrets to sewing with it! It’s a lovely cotton with a crisp drape and a lovely smooth surface and a subtle sheen. It presses beautifully and holds its shape well.
Due to the nature of the weave, it barely frays and I had no issue with stretching as I sewed, everything matched up and it was a trouble-free experience. I did serge all the raw edges as I like neatly finished garments.
I decided to line the skirt with some cotton voile, you could use something lovely like this silk-voile. Living a garment often means it wears better and creases less. Plus in this instance it also provided some addition ‘oomph’ which was fun. To line the skirt, I simply used the skirt pieces, cut slightly shorter. I attached the lining to the skirt along the waistband, then attached the yoke lining and skirt lining to the zip using the Sewaholic Cambie method. I hand stitched the lower yoke edges together as even though I know I could machine this seam… if it doesn’t sink perfectly into the seam, the visible stitching drives me crazy… even if it’s only me that sees it!
I would advise that the 7 inch invisible zipper recommended in the pattern is a little too short. I used an 8 inch invisible zipper and it seemed to be barely enough!
This pattern is not a fabric monster – it uses just 1 3/4 yards (1.6m) or 60 inch (150cm) wide fabric.
What can I say – lovely timeless fabric that is easy to work with and fun to sew, what more can you ask for?
Got forth and sew yourself a fun midi polka dot skirt!
Fabric: 1.6m Denim Blue/White Polka Dot Stretch Cotton Twill
Pattern: Vogue 9090, View B