A Guayabera for a Secretive Guy
And here endeth the Live Human Model shots for this post. Sorry, but Big Daddy is a child of the sixties and not so into putting his good looks on the internet. Bright side: for once, you get actual detail shots of actual sewing!
I have recently become aware that blue is my Dad’s favorite hue, and so for his birthday, I attempted a linen Guayabera that compliments his (*not* blue, *not* pictured) eyes.
This woven linen was unearthed on Mood Fabric’s lower floor, a level that I must admit, I don’t frequent! Jerseys & Shirtings live there, and for some reason, this past 4th of July weekend, a small pile of linen bolts languished by the Liberty prints. I snatched several up immediately, although I thought the loose weave and solid color of my Dad’s bolt might give me brain pain. But with proper handling the yardage was a pleasure to work with, even without a technicolor print to keep my attention.
This is Colette’s Negroni, which I’ve previously modified into a Hawaiian shirt, and now into a Guayabera. The mods included boxing out the side seams & adding little 3 inch vents (to accommodate the hem)…
I chose coconut buttons for a summery feel, and added an extra to the inside of the turned-under-and topstitched side seams.
I used several seam finishes, depending on what the seam needed to do–here on the facing, I turned under 1/2 inch and topstitched along the raw edge with a zig zag , so that it would lay flat under the shirt. It’s interfaced, so I’m not too worried about fraying…
I have recently become acquainted with my newest needle love: the wing needle. SO MUCH FUN. Three rows of machine hemstitching in rayon with a wing needle down either side of the shirt gave it a Guayabera(ish) feel– I was going to get way more fancy with that stitching, but decided to keep it simple once I realized the shirt might…never…get…worn…
Let me explain. Whilst pondering how many pockets to add, Ruggy had a feel of the fabric . Um, oona… he began, with hesitation, knowing he was pretty much poking a violent beast with a dull stick, after all, I was sewing MENSWEAR… this seems a little heavy for a summer linen shirt.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN, I bellowed, IT’S LINEN AND LINEN BREATHES. SILENCE CITIZEN.
Yeah, it’s a little heavy. Adding two breast pockets meant adding two more layers of this awesome, but heavy, stuff, right across the chest. No bueno. (Hey man, at least I’m picking a more manly shade of fabric. You should see the stuff I try to put Ruggy in.) Pockets abandoned, I decided to call it a Fall/Winter Dress Guayabera, and presented Big Daddy with his prize– along with the promise of another summer shirt before he even opened this one. But he put it on immediately and called it good!
(He’s still getting a lighterweight shirt, because I don’t trust him.)
Here it is flipped inside out. Hmmm…I probably should have used bobbin fill rather than poly for that hem stitching...anyhooo... I couldn’t resist using some of this Italian Digitally Printed Silk for the inner yoke and under collar. Found that beauty in silk prints, an aisle you’ll often catch me in. It’s not visible at all, but it made me all sorts of happy to know it was there. You’ll be seeing a lot more of this print shortly…
And whoops, you’re seeing more of Big Daddy right now! I LIED! Look, he should know better than to turn his back on me when I’ve got a camera in my hands! Don’t worry, Dad, the internet still doesn’t know who you are. Your secret agent persona is safe.